Reactivity On Walks

Reactivity on walks usually looks like lunging, barking, growling, spinning, freezing, or “going mad” when your spaniel sees something they can’t cope with — often other dogs, people, bikes, traffic, or sudden noises. It can feel like aggression, but in many cases reactivity is driven by fear, frustration, over-arousal, or learned habit.

This hub explains what reactivity is (and isn’t), how to identify your dog’s triggers, and how to build a practical training plan that helps your spaniel stay calmer and more responsive outdoors.

Key guides in this section

Start here: reactive behaviour and walking triggers

Aggression and dog-to-dog issues (breed-specific)

Related behaviour hubs

Related training hubs

What reactivity looks like in spaniels

A reactive episode might include:

barking or snarling as a dog approaches
lunging on the lead
pulling towards triggers (excited/frustrated greeter)
pulling away, freezing, hiding (fearful reactivity)
spinning, jumping, or “screaming”
intense staring, stiff body, raised hackles

Spaniels often flip quickly from calm to over-threshold because they’re sensitive to movement, stimulation and scent.

Reactivity is not the same as “bad behaviour”

Most reactive dogs aren’t trying to dominate. They’re struggling to cope.

Common underlying drivers:

fear / uncertainty (especially on lead)
frustration (wanting to greet but being restrained)
over-arousal (too much stimulation; brain can’t think)
previous negative experiences
pain/discomfort (can reduce tolerance dramatically)

If reactivity appears suddenly, worsens rapidly, or seems out of character, a vet check is sensible.

Start here: identify triggers and distance

Before you train anything, you need two things:

1) Your trigger list

Write down what sets your dog off:

dogs (on-lead/off-lead)
people (adults/children)
bikes/scooters
traffic/noises
birds/wildlife
narrow paths, gates, corners

2) Your threshold distance

This is the distance your dog can notice a trigger and still:

take food
respond to their name
turn away with you
stay loose in the body

If your dog can’t do any of those, you’re too close.

The reactivity plan that works (in the right order)

Step 1: Stop rehearsing the meltdown

While you train:

choose quieter routes
walk at quieter times
add distance early (cross the road, step into a driveway, turn around)
use a long lead/line only if you can handle it safely
avoid tight, unavoidable “pinch points” temporarily

This isn’t avoidance forever — it’s reducing failures while you rebuild.

Step 2: Build a calm “pattern” behaviour

Pick one easy routine you can repeat every walk:

Option A: “Look at that” → reward
Dog sees trigger at a safe distance → you mark/reward → dog learns triggers predict good things.

Option B: “This way” U-turn → reward
A simple, calm escape route. You’re teaching your dog that moving away is safe and rewarding.

Step 3: Add engagement skills

Reactivity improves faster when your dog can reconnect with you:

name response
hand target
follow me
check-in rewards

These should be practised at home first, then on quiet walks.

Step 4: Reduce lead tension

Lead tension often increases reactivity. Aim for:

a comfortable harness/collar set-up
a loose lead where possible
gentle movement away rather than holding tight and staring at the trigger

➡️ Related: /spaniel-training/lead-walking/

Step 5: Gradually close distance over weeks

Only reduce distance when your dog can stay under threshold reliably. Reactivity training is measured in weeks, not days.

The 3 most common types of reactivity (and what to do)

1) Fearful reactivity (keep-away behaviour)

Signs:

barking/lunging to increase distance
tucked tail, avoidance, sudden freezing
Approach:
more distance, slower progress, build confidence, don’t force greetings.

2) Frustrated greeter (wants to say hello)

Signs:

pulling hard towards dogs/people
barking from excitement/frustration
Approach:
teach calm alternatives, reward disengagement, practise controlled passing.

3) Over-arousal (can’t think outdoors)

Signs:

“wired” behaviour even without a clear trigger
barking at multiple things
Approach:
reduce stimulation, add decompression/sniff time, build impulse control and rest.