Over-arousal is when your spaniel becomes so stimulated (excited, frustrated, stressed, or “wired”) that they struggle to think, listen, or settle. It’s not a character flaw — it’s a nervous system state. Many spaniels are naturally high-drive and sensitive to movement, scent, novelty, and routine changes, so they can tip into over-arousal quickly.
This hub explains what over-arousal looks like, what causes it, and how to build an “off-switch” using training, management, and better day-to-day routines.
Key guides in this section
Start here: calming down and switching off
- Training High-Energy Dogs: How to Calm, Focus, and…
- Teaching your spaniel to be calm and relaxed on walks
When do spaniels calm down? (age and expectations)
- When do Cocker spaniels calm down?
- How to Get a Springer Spaniel to Calm Down: Tips and Tricks for a Happy Pooch
- The age when Springer spaniels calm down
- When does a Cavalier King Charles spaniel calm down?
Hyperactivity, zoomies, and over-excitement
- Are Cocker Spaniels Hyperactive? Everything You Should Know
- Understanding Dog Zoomies: Why Puppies and Spaniels Run Around Like Crazy
- What can I give my dog to calm down in the car?
Related hubs
What over-arousal looks like
Common signs include:
- zoomies, spinning, jumping, mouthiness
- grabbing leads, nipping sleeves, “biting the lead”
- barking at multiple things (or barking that escalates fast)
- frantic sniffing and inability to disengage
- pulling harder as the walk continues
- inability to settle after walks or visitors
- pacing, panting, restless behaviour indoors
- “selective hearing” and poor recall when excited
- reacting to small triggers (dogs, people, noises) more intensely than expected
Over-arousal often looks like “too much energy”, but the fix is rarely just “more exercise”.
The most common causes (spaniel-specific)
Over-arousal tends to come from one or more of these:
1) Too much stimulation, too little recovery
Busy walks, lots of novelty, constant interaction, and not enough downtime.
2) Under-sleeping (overtired dogs get wired)
Many dogs become more chaotic when tired — like overtired toddlers.
➡️ Support: /spaniel-welfare/rest-and-sleep/
3) Lack of structure and predictability
Spaniels often do better when the day has a calm pattern: rest, short training, walk, enrichment, rest.
4) Reinforced excitement
If arousal behaviours lead to fun (chasing, attention, getting what they want), they become stronger habits.
5) High-value environments too early
Fields, woodland, off-lead freedom, high dog density — all before the foundations are ready.
Over-arousal vs “normal spaniel energy”
Spaniels are lively. Over-arousal is different because the dog:
- cannot settle even when needs are met
- struggles to take food or respond to cues outdoors
- escalates quickly and takes a long time to come down
- repeats “wired” behaviour daily
- reacts more intensely over time (spiral effect)
If your dog seems unusually restless, reactive, or unable to relax, it’s worth considering pain or health factors too.
Start here: the off-switch plan (simple and practical)
These steps work best in order.
Step 1: Protect rest (make calm possible)
Aim for consistent rest opportunities:
- predictable quiet time daily
- reduce constant stimulation
- create a calm settle area (bed, pen, crate if your dog likes it)
Step 2: Reduce the daily “pressure”
If your dog is over-aroused daily, reduce:
- busy walks
- high-energy play that ends with chaos
- long off-lead sessions in high-distraction places
- constant greetings with dogs/people
This is temporary. You’re lowering the baseline.
Step 3: Train calmness as a skill
Calmness can be trained the same way as sit or recall:
- reward relaxed body language
- reward choosing the bed
- reward quiet check-ins
- practise short “pause” moments (wait, settle)
➡️ Training hub: /spaniel-training/impulse-control/
Step 4: Add “structured outlets”
Spaniels need an outlet — but the outlet must not create a wired dog.
Good outlets:
- scentwork games
- controlled retrieves / gundog-style games
- enrichment that ends in calm
- short, structured training sessions
➡️ /spaniel-welfare/mental-stimulation/ and /spaniel-welfare/enrichment/
Step 5: Change the walk format
Instead of one long, chaotic walk, use:
- shorter walks
- more sniff breaks (decompression)
- fewer greetings
- engagement breaks (30 seconds)
- calm lead handling (reduce tension)
➡️ /spaniel-training/lead-walking/
Practical “in the moment” tactics (when your dog is escalating)
These don’t replace training, but they help you avoid rehearsal.
- Increase distance from triggers immediately
- Use a calm U-turn (“this way”) and reward following
- Stop talking (your voice can add stimulation)
- Scatter feeding (if your dog can still eat) to bring the nose down
- End the session early and let your dog decompress
The goal is not to win the moment — it’s to prevent practising chaos.
Common mistakes that keep dogs wired
Avoid these patterns:
- adding more and more exercise (creates a fitter, more stimulated dog)
- using only high-energy play (ball throwing, constant chasing)
- inconsistent routines (no predictable off-switch)
- too much freedom too soon (off-lead in high scent environments)
- “flooding” your dog with busy environments to “get used to it”
- punishing arousal (often increases stress and intensity)
Where to go next
If over-arousal is showing up in specific ways, these hubs help:
- Walk reactivity:
/spaniel-behaviour/reactivity/ - Barking escalation:
/spaniel-behaviour/barking/ - Calmness training plan:
/spaniel-training/impulse-control/ - Rest routines:
/spaniel-welfare/rest-and-sleep/ - Appropriate outlets:
/spaniel-welfare/enrichment/