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  • How to keep a Cocker spaniel busy

    How to keep a Cocker spaniel busy

    The best way to keep your Cocker spaniel busy is to give them plenty of opportunities to exercise both their body and their mind. Physical activity is important for all dogs, but it’s especially important for dogs that have energy to burn. Take your Cocker spaniel on long walks, runs or hikes. Play fetch or tug-of-war in your backyard. If you have another dog, they can be a great playmate for your Cocker spaniel.

    A Cocker spaniel is a bundle of energy. They are playful, curious and full of life.

    If you’re not careful, that energy can quickly turn into mischief.

    The key to having a happy, well-behaved Cocker spaniel is to keep them busy. A bored cocker spaniel is more likely to get into trouble.

    Mental stimulation

    Mental stimulation is just as important as physical activity for keeping your Cocker spaniel busy.

    Interactive toys such as food puzzles or treat dispensing toys are great ways to engage your Cocker spaniel’s brain.

    You can also teach them tricks or enroll them in a training class.

    Working on commands and behaviours will help tire them out mentally and give them a sense of purpose.

    how to keep a cocker spaniel busy
    Mental stimulation is as important as physical exercise

    Exercising your spaniel

    Typically, your spaniel will need a good walk at least once daily, twice if possible.

    An hour’s walk, for a spaniel, is a great way to let him burn off energy and, if you are able to let him run freely off his lead, then he will run and run, chasing his nose.

    At the end of the walk, he’ll be tired, ready for a drink and a meal followed, probably by a good sleep. 

    Spaniel training

    If you can do some training with your spaniel, either on a walk or at home, outside, then that’s great and you can find some spaniel training tips and hints here which will help to get you started.

    Sometimes it may not always be possible to take your dog for a lengthy walk.

    This may be due to weather, illness, time of year, daylight levels or simply the time that you have available.

    You may have an outdoor area, garden or yard. If you can make it secure and escape proof then you can allow your dog to be outside, in the fresh air, he can roam around the garden and enjoy being outside.

    You can do some training and some simple exercises such as teaching him how to stop on the whistle.

    If you live in an urban area, where outdoor space is at a premium and difficult to access, then you may have to jump in the car and travel for a short distance or, if the only option is to walk around the town, then do this.

    Anything is better than nothing when your dog’s exercise and welfare is concerned.

    Play dog hide and seek

    Spaniels live for smells and love playing ‘nose’ games. 

    One of the prime instincts of a spaniel is that of retrieving and finding and searching for things is a great game for them.

    Dog hide and seek involves hiding a doggy treat somewhere in the house or garden and getting your spaniel to find the treat.

    Although this might not be as physically demanding as working out in the open on regular retrieving exercises, the mental stimulation will tire your dog while helping him to develop his scenting and finding skills.

    How To Keep a Cocker Spaniel Busy
    Hide and seek is great fun for dogs. You can use treats or rope the kids in to tire them out too.

    To get this started you can take some treats and let your dog see you plant them around the room.

    You can then instruct him to find the treats and let him search them out. When he is successful let him eat the treat.

    As he gets better and more familiar with the game, hide the treats when he is not looking, so you make the game more difficult and more challenging for him.

    The three ladies game for spaniels

    An easy game to play indoors with your dog. 

    Take three upturned cups, place a treat underneath one of them and then let your dog see you shift them around, so that the treat has been moved.

    You encourage your dog to find the treat, which cup is it underneath.

    Let him sniff it out – this challenges him and will mentally test him and use energy up and he gets the treat when he gets it right.

    keep a cocker spaniel busy

    Use a stuffed Kong to keep your spaniel occupied

    Easy to use and clean, these toys can be stuffed with almost any type of dog food, which your dog then licks and tries to get out so he can eat it.

    I have used dog treats, cheese and peanut butter as Kong stuffing and they are all enjoyed by my spaniels, who take delight in prising the food out.

    To make the Kong last longer you can even put a stuffed Kong into the freezer to solidify it, like an iced lolly for dogs.

    I like the regular Kong toys because they they are tough, they roll around so it is a challenge for a dog to hold it and they have to think about this as well as extracting the food contained inside.

    They are also easy to clean and you can put them into the dishwasher.

    You can also find similar toys to Kongs that are just as tough and easy to clean such as these West Paw Dog Toys.

    Teach your spaniel the names of his toys

    According to experts it’s said that a dog can recognise around 165 words and, can count to 5.

    There are some dogs that can go even further and recognise many more words.

    Teaching a spaniel or other dog to recognise things by name, such as his toys, is a fun thing to do and will work your dog mentally, helping to keep him occupied.

    You can start with one specific toy, giving it a name, show the toy to your dog and repeat the name.

    Do this regularly and, before long, your spaniel will associate the name with the toy.

    Just as he recognises the word ‘walk’ with going for a walk, he’ll soon recognise the toy’s name.

    Once you have some success, repeat with other toys.

    Eventually you can have a game where you say the toys name and ask your spaniel to find it and bring it to you.

    A great game to play and a challenge for your dog.

    The ‘which hand game’

    Most dogs are really good at this game and it’s an easy one for your dog to learn.

    Take a nice treat and put it in one of your hands.

    Hold both hands out to the dog with your fists closed and ask the dog ‘which hand’.

    Hopefully your dog will sniff your hands and choose the correct hand. When he does open your hand and give him the treat.

    Try different treats and if he gets it wrong encourage him.

    This simple game encourages your dog to use his nose and think about which hand the treat is in.

    Take him for a ride in the car

    If you have a car then you can take your dog for a ride out.

    Most dogs enjoy a ride out, even if its only for a short time.

    It’s stimulating for them, they enjoy the sights and smells, and, if there’s any chance to get out and have a sniff around, even if it is just at the supermarket car park for a few minutes, then why not take them with you?

    FAQs

    How much exercise does a Cocker Spaniel need to stay busy?

    Cocker Spaniels are an active breed and require regular exercise to stay mentally and physically stimulated. Aim for at least one hour of daily exercise, which can include walks, playtime, and interactive games.

    What are some engaging toys or games for Cocker Spaniels?

    Cocker Spaniels are intelligent dogs that enjoy interactive toys and games. Consider puzzle toys, treat-dispensing toys, or hide-and-seek games to keep them mentally stimulated. Toys that encourage chewing, such as durable rubber toys, can also be beneficial.

    How can I prevent my Cocker Spaniel from getting bored when I’m not home?

    When you’re away, provide your Cocker Spaniel with mentally stimulating activities. Leave puzzle toys or interactive treat-dispensing toys to keep them engaged. Consider using food puzzles or frozen Kong toys filled with treats to provide mental stimulation and keep them occupied.

    Are there any specific training exercises that can help keep a Cocker Spaniel busy?

    Yes, training exercises can be an excellent way to keep your Cocker Spaniel mentally engaged. Teach them new commands, tricks, or participate in obedience training classes. Mental stimulation through training sessions helps tire them out and prevents boredom.

    What are some indoor activities that can keep a Cocker Spaniel entertained during bad weather?

    When outdoor activities are limited, there are still plenty of indoor options to keep your Cocker Spaniel busy. Set up an indoor obstacle course, play hide-and-seek with treats, or engage them in scent work activities. Interactive toys or puzzle games can also provide mental stimulation indoors.

    Final Words

    A bored dog is an unhappy dog and it’s unfair for us to ignore his needs.

    Dogs love interactive play, games such as fetch, hiding treats, exploring, anything that challenges his mind and makes him use his senses, particularly his sense of smell.

    If you can keep his tail wagging and a big doggy smile on his face then you’re doing something right.

  • The Boykin Spaniel

    The Boykin Spaniel

    If you’re the type of person who loves nothing more than spending your weekends hiking, fishing, or hunting, then you need a dog that can keep up with your active lifestyle.

    And there’s no breed more perfectly suited for this than the Boykin spaniel.

    The Boykin spaniel is a medium-sized dog that was originally bred in South Carolina in the early 1900s. This breed is known for its intelligence, loyalty, and good nature, making them the perfect companion for those who love spending time outdoors. Boykins are also relatively easy to train and make an excellent choice for first-time dog owners.

    What is a Boykin Spaniel?

    The Boykin Spaniel is one of the only dogs that has it’s own day.

    The 1st September is the official Boykin Spaniel Day in South Carolina, USA.

    I think that’s great and maybe all spaniels should have their ‘own day’.

    The Boykin Spaniel is a similar dog to the English Cocker Spaniel, being of a medium size and having a similar facial look about it.

    The breed tends to be slightly larger than the Cocker and is wider along the body, providing for a powerful, squat dog.

    Boykins tend to be coloured liver or brown and often this is a complete, full body color, occasionally flecks of white can be found on the dog’s chest.

    spaniel direction training
    The Boykin spaniel

    What is the Boykin Spaniel known for?

    The Boykin Spaniel is a typical working spaniel breed used for the flushing of birds to make them fly during hunting.

    The dog is a classic spaniel type, a skilful, powerful and capable hunter, similar in it’s ability and performance to the English Cocker Spaniel and this is reflected in the breed’s suitability for pheasant shooting and upland bird flushing such as grouse.

    Boykins have also been used in the tracking of deer and finding wounded game.

    The Boykin Spaniel is, however, best known for hunting wild turkeys and ducks in the swamps of South Carolina, which forms the basis of its origins and it’s subsequent recognition in the state and it’s ‘state dog day’.

    How much exercise does a Boykin Spaniel need?

    The Boykin Spaniel is a typical spaniel in that it has masses of energy and is generally a fit and able dog.

    Like all gundogs and other high energy dogs, a Boykin requires good levels of exercise which should, whenever possible include free running, swimming, spaniel training and other activities that will challenge and tire both the dog’s body and also it’s mind.

    Embarking on a training program for a Boykin Spaniel is a good idea, they are good, working dogs that are responsive to training and they enjoy the challenge and input of spaniel training.

    [amazon bestseller=”boykin spaniel” items=”3″ template=”table”]

    Are Boykin Spaniels easy to train?

    The Boykin is an intelligent, eager dog and typical of most of the spaniel breeds this dog loves training and is an easy dog to train.

    The breed is calm, friendly , energetic and playful.

    They are known as being loveable dogs that are easy to get along with and they make ideal pets for an active household, they are great with children.

    It has to be remembered that the Boykin is a spaniel, this makes him energetic, and, although the breed is not hyperactive.

    For anyone that is unfamiliar with spaniels and is unable to provide the exercise and training challenges, the dog may appear hyper and may be a tricky companion to live with.

    The Boykin Spaniel
    Boykins are active, friendly dogs

    Are Boykin Spaniels good pets?

    Spaniels, in their own right, are excellent pets.

    Whether Boykin, Cocker, Springer, Clumber etc the dog known as a spaniel is a great companion.

    I’ve never owned a Boykin but, having lived with Cockers and Springers I can vouch for the breeds, they are great pets.

    Boykin spaniels are loyal, tough and enthusiastic hunting dogs. Like all of the spaniel breeds they love companionship and the comforts that a human based pack provides.

    They are great around children and other dogs, enjoying playing, outdoor adventures and fun.

    Being easy to train they are adaptable and intelligent.

    What is the life expectancy of the Boykin Spaniel?

    Typically most of the spaniel breeds live until 12 to 16 years of age. The Boykin spaniel is no exception to this and a healthy, well cared for dog will enjoy a good, long life.

    Do Boykin Spaniels like to swim?

    Yes. The Boykin Spaniel has it’s heritage in other spaniel breeds and also retrievers.  Historically these types of dogs are all from working gundog breeds and they possess a very strong instinct to swim.

    These qualities have been inherited by the Boykin spaniel which is probably one of the best swimming dogs around.  Originally bred for the watery swamp areas of South Carolina, it could be said that water is in the Boykin’s blood.

    Are Boykin Spaniels aggressive?

    All dogs possess the ability to be aggressive if mistreated, threatened or challenged inadvertently.

    If a dog is brought up badly or has a bad experience then it’s always possible for the most sedate and friendly animal to become aggressive.

    The Boykin is a friendly dog. Like all spaniels the breed is amenable, friendly and kind.

    Do Boykin Spaniels have any health problems?

    Boykin spaniels have been known to suffer from:

    Hip dysplasis caused in the main by poor breeding and poor diet and weight.

    Heart and eye disease has occurred in some dogs.

    Problems with condition of coats – but in the main this has been due to poor ownership in dealing with ticks and fleas.

    Final Words

    The Boykin spaniel is a lively, biddable breed of spaniel that makes an ideal pet for an active family.

    The breed is an effective and capable working dog, easy to train, enjoying good standards of health.

    If you are looking for a different type of spaniel, then a Boykin could be a great choice.

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  • Can Corona Virus Infect Dogs?

    Can Corona Virus Infect Dogs?

    It’s worrying times, not just here but all over the globe. Never in my lifetime have I seen anything like this. Even the wars that have happened pale into insignificance against this foe.

    I don’t know where you are reading this or what country you are from but this ‘virus’ affects all of us.

    Here in the United Kingdom, our Prime Minister Boris Johnson, has just announced, just over an hour ago, that effectively we must not leave our homes.

    The effect of this disease is clearly very serious and fatal for many human beings, and although some people have survived, there are many that have been less fortunate.

    Many people, having seen the impact that this disease has had upon humans are naturally becoming concerned about their pets and are wondering what the implications are for dogs.

    I’m not a vet so I am only basing my comments on research. If you have any concerns about the health of your dog then please take him/her straight to the vets to get their expert opinion and advice.

    The World Health Organisation describe the Coronavirus  (COVID -19) as an infectious disease caused by a newly discovered Coronavirus for which there are no known vaccines or cures.

    They define Coronaviruses as a family of viruses that cause illness in animals or humans.

    For more information on Coronaviruses you can visit the WHO website at this this link.

    what is coronavirus

    Can Dogs get Coronavirus?

    Since the announcement by the World Health Organisation in march 2020 about the global pandemic caused by the discovery of a new Coronavirus, many pictures of dogs wearing face masks have appeared online.

    This has led to many people asking the question ‘ Can dogs get Coronavirus?’.

    Can Dogs get Covid-19?

    It’s been known for a long time that dogs can get certain types of coronavirus, such as canine respiritory coronavirus, but the current outbreak of Covid-19 is not believed to be a health threat to dogs.

    The WHO stated that there is no evidence to suggest that a dog, cat or any pet can transmit COVID-19. COVID-19 is spread when a person coughs, sneezes or speaks.

    Can Dogs Spread COVID-19?

    A spokesman for China’s National Health Commission cautioned pet owners in China asking them to be careful about their health and the health of their pets.

    He stated that if pets go out and come into contact with an infected person then they have the chance to become infected.

    He suggested that people be careful with their pets and, if their pets do come into contact with an infected person, that the pets are isolated.

    Two dogs in Hing Kong have recently been tested as positive but health officials say that this is likely to be human to dog infection emphasising that there is no evidence that pet animals can be a source of COVID-19  or that they can become unwell.

    Is it safe to cuddle and love my dog?

    The American Veterinary Medical Association are of the view that stroking and petting a dog is low risk with them stating that they are not concerned about people contracting COVID-19 through contact with dogs .

    They further state that there are no cases globally of any reported instances of people becoming infected with COVID-19 as a result of contact with dogs.

    They do state that good hygiene practice should be observed which is common advice anyway, such as don’t let children put their fingers into their mouths after stroking the puppy – basic hygiene remains important as it always has been.

    is it safe to cuddle my dog

    Can I take my dog for a walk?

    The situation is quite fluid in many countries and you should check what the position is in your area.

    In the UK, tonight, people are only allowed out of their homes for one period of exercise daily, so this would probably include walking the dog.

    Physical exercise is as important for your dog as it is for you, both physically and mentally, so you need to make the most of the opportunities that are available to you.

    Its important to give your dog attention and, if you are training with him, to do the best that you are able to continue this. He will enjoy the input and it will help you too. You may have to make some changes to your regime, place of training, but do your best to enjoy the exercise.

    Make sure that you practice good hygiene and always wash your hands before and after each walk.

    Social distancing is a term that we are all becoming more and more familiar with. Make sure that you stay safe and practice this, remember that your dog doesn’t understand things like this so he won’t stay away from other dogs and people, so take precautions and put him on his lead if necessary.

    How can I protect my dog from Coronavirus?

    If you are a healthy dog owner then you won’t need to do anything other than make sure that you follwo the basic hygiene advice such as washing your hands with soap and water before and after every walk,

    This also includes after you have had any contact with any form of animal, be it dog, cat etc.

    If you are unfortunate to test positive for COVID -19 then you should avoid contact with your pets and animals both to avoid infecting them and to prevent getting the virus onto their fur which could then be passed onto other people who pet them.

    There is also suggestion that to prevent infections from coming into your home that you should wipe your dog’s paws with wipes to clean them – just as you would clean your hands.

    Dogs don’t need face masks for protection against COVID-19 but, if you have any concerns about your dog’s health then you should speak to your vet.

    And please, don’t abandon your dog at a shelter because you are afraid of COVID-19. Your dog loves you and is a member of your family, Treat him like one and look after him.

  • Car travel for dogs

    Car travel for dogs

    Chances are that, if you are like most people, there will be occasions when you need to embark on a journey or adventure with your dog.

    Most of these trips will likely be by car or some other form of transport, you may have a camper or caravan, or, you might even need to travel by air.

    Dogs are adaptable and resilient but, like all things there are are several areas that you need to think about when you are travelling with your pet. Safety and comfort should be a priority as well as knowing what to do if your dog is a reluctant traveller.

    travelling by car with a spaniel
    Nimrod driving

    Travelling by car with a dog

    My Cocker spaniels, Nimrod and Boris love the car.

    Whenever the word ‘car’ is used they both get excited as, normally, going for a ride in the car means going on an adventure.

    We normally end up in the forest, on the fell, at the beach or just simply having a walk around one of the local villages ( normally with a visit to the pub for a couple of beers afterwards).

    The dogs were introduced to the car as puppies and we’ve never had any real problems with either of them apart from the odd episode of sickness which occurred as result of feeding them before going on a journey, which made them throw up.

    car travel for dogs
    Car travel is fun for most dogs

    Cleaning up spaniel sick from the inside of your car is not something that I would recommend as a pastime that you should explore – all I can say is that I’m glad I have leather seats.

    Start young and get your dog used to the car

    Chances are that when you get your dog you will have to travel and, no doubt, put him in the car to get home.

    It is always a good idea to get your pet used to the car from an early age at this will help to prevent your dog from having problems when he is older.

    car travel for dogs
    You come across all sorts of characters on the road

    Some dogs get anxious and sick when in the car and there are ways in which you can help to stop these.

    Don’t feed your dog before going out in the car. If you must feed him then try to wait until you arrive at your destination.

    This will help to prevent him from getting nauseous and/or sick.

    Start with short journeys, with a nice walk at the end.

    This will help your dog to grow to like the car as he will associate the car with excitement and something enjoyable at the end.

    car travel for dogs
    Playtime at the end of a car journey makes it much more appealing to a dog

    Take your time when driving and don’t rush.

    Just as people can get car sick if they are thrown around when travelling, dogs too can feel unwell and can be susceptible to travel sickness.

    Don’t have the car too warm, and try to allow fresh air into the vehicle, perhaps by having a window down when conditions permit. 

    If you have the radio on etc, then don’t have it on too loudly.

    Your dog can hear different sound frequencies and levels and so be careful on volume and type of music.

    Make the journey as pleasurable as possible for you and your dog.

    Help him to recognise the car as a source of fun which normally results in fun at the end.

    car travel for dogs
    Some dogs enjoy car travel too much

    Essentials of car travel with a dog

    No matter on the type of car or other vehicle that you have and use when transporting your dog there are several things that you really do need to think about and should really be considered as essentials for you and him.

    Driving presents risks and you should always try to use a good quality dog restraint for your dog.

    This can be in the form of a dog type seat belt, dog cage or dog guard.

    Read our article here on dog car crates.

    It depends on the type of vehicle that you own but effective restraint to ensure the safety of your dog is important.

    If you need to stop suddenly or are involved in an accident then the restraint could save your dog’s life.

    You should always have some fresh water with you when your pet is in the car with you.

    Dogs get warm quickly when in  a vehicle and access to water may be something that you need for him quickly.

    car travel for dogs
    Some are just too cool

    It goes without saying that you should never, ever, leave your dog in the car when  the weather is warm, In fact you should avoid doing this at anytime. 

    Remember that dogs die in warm cars and, there are some people out there that steal dogs from vehicles.

    Just as you would if you had children with you so you should make regular stops if you are taking a long journey.

    Your dog will need to go to the toilet, he’ll need a drink and he’ll also need fresh air.

    Think about buying some window shades for your car to help to keep the sun off your dog and keep him cool.

    The certified sunshades from Kinder Fluff keep out almost 100% of UVA and UVB and are ideal for all vehicles.  You can check their latest price on Amazon here.

    Where should a dog sit in the car?

    The safest place for your dog to travel while in the car is always in the back of the car.

    If you have an estate car, station wagon ( or whichever term you use) then the best option is to use a cage or crate.

    car travel for dogs
    Dogs enjoy watching the world go by

    In the past I owned a VW Passat Estate and had a solid dog crate that would comfortably hold three English Springer Spaniels.

    This was a really solid box that keep the dogs secure and safe. When it was not being used for dogs it could be used to carry shopping and luggage.  It was also possible to secure it with a padlock.

    The other option for an estate car is a good dog guard and there are many available online, such as these that are available on Amazon.

    You should never really allow your dog to travel on the front seat. This can be dangerous to both you and your dog.

    Is it safe for my dog to put his head out of the car window?

    My two Cocker Spaniels Boris and Nimrod love to put their heads out of the car window, they seem to get a large amount of enjoyment from doing this.

    car travel for dogs
    Be careful if your dog likes doing this

    But, is it really safe and a good idea for a dog to ride along with his head out of the car window?

    Why do dogs love to stick their heads out of car windows?

    The world of a dog and particularly dogs like spaniels, is governed by smell. Most dogs are walking noses and their world is all about scent.

    I can only speculate as to why Boris and Nimrod love putting their heads out but I can only guess that they enjoy getting the breeze up their nostrils as they whizz along.

    Whenever I drive with the window down, I experience a variety of smells depending on the area that I am passing through and, given that a spaniel’s sense of smell is much better than mine, they must smell all sorts.

    Maybe they are having some sort of smell fest or binge for dogs.  A bit like Homer Simpson at an all you can eat buffet..

    car travel for dogs

    What are the dangers of my dog riding with his head out of the car window?

    There are several risks that your dog can face if you let him ride with his head out and some of them can be serious.

    Your dog could fall out of the car which, at its best would be a bad injury or at worst fatal. If you have the window too far down then he could be distracted by something and fall or jump out.

    car travel for dogs
    Be careful that your dog does not fall out of the car

    He could get hit by an object as you are travelling along. The added speed of travel could make a small object much more dangerous than normal. If it hit his eye then this could be serious.

    You could be involved in an accident and, should your dog have his head out then this could be tragic.

    You could misjudge how close you are to a tree, bush etc and as you drive past your dog could get whacked by the object.

    To give your dog the enjoyment of fresh air and the rush of scent, just lower the window a little less, so that he can stick his nose into the breeze, but can’t get his head out.

    car travel for dogs
    Some dogs are just born to pose

    He’ll enjoy it just as much and won’t really care about the difference, all he wants are the smells.

    Most dogs love car travel. Going out in the car often means some excitement at the other end – such as a walk or other adventure.

    If your dog is a little reluctant then start with short journeys and do something fun at the destination.

    Whatever you do though if he doesn’t like the car then don’t use the vet’s as your first journey.

  • Spaniel Gun Dog Training Kit

    Spaniel Gun Dog Training Kit

    I have a few bits and pieces that I use when I’m training my spaniels and over the years I’ve lost stuff, worn it out, or the dogs have eaten it.

    When you are working with a spaniel and helping him to develop in his ability and training then you’ll really need to have a few pieces of equipment to help you along.

    I thought that it might be helpful if I showed you what I have in my spaniel gun dog training kit on the understanding that it might give you some ideas and help you along with your spaniel training.

    It doesn’t have to be expensive, you will probably need to buy a few things, and, if you are creative, then there’s a fair chance that you could make some of these items yourself. I think that it’s within the realms of possibility and it could save you some hard earned cash.

    I will add some links to some of the products that I use ( or similar ) some of these links will be affiliate links and if you buy through them I will earn a small commision – which would help me out so thank you.

    My Spaniel Training Kit

    spaniel training kit

    This is my kit that I use when training my dogs. It’s nothing special to look at and, as you can see, gets well used, dirty and a little worn.

    I’m going to go through the content of my kit and show you just what I use when I am out with Boris and Nimrod, my two Cocker Spaniels.

    Now, this is not a definitive list of things that you might want to use and, if you want, then you can get away with less.

    You’ll find that as you train dogs you will aqcuire more and more equipment, mainly because things wear out or you’ll see a good deal on a piece of equipment, or something will come along that you like the look of.

    It may also be that you have a difficult dog that is having a specific problem and you may need to get an item of equipment to help the dog ( and yourself ) to get around the obstacle.

    So, as time goes on, and you spend more and more time training spaniels and other dogs, you’ll build on your kit and it will grow.

    Where to get gun dog training gear

    I’ve amassed a few things for use with training. Many have been purchased online via the likes of Amazon where you can find all sorts of dog training equipment.

    I’ve also picked up equipment from second hand stores and military surplus shops. The latter are often overlooked by dog trainers, most seem to go for full priced products via gun dog suppliers.

    If you are willing to take the time to visit some of these surplus shops then you can often get some great bargains as well as find some unusual kit and clothing that can help you when you are outdoors.

    A lot of ex-military stuff is tough, cheap and easy to clean. I’ve found some great pants, hats and coats at these types of stores and, frankly, it’s always an adventure visiting these types of shops. I find them great fun and I don’t normally like shopping.

    I’ve also used sites such as eBay, markets and from adverts in the newspaper and scrounged stuff of other people and, I’ve made items for training – although they didn’t last very long.

    So I’d say be creative when buying and shopping for spaniel training gear and your outdoor clothing. You can find equipment in the most unexpected of places – so keep your eyes open.

    What’s in my bag?

    The Bag

    Many years ago I had a really good game bag that I had bought second hand from a local gun dealer. It was a great bag that was probably worth several times what I paid for it.

    I was driving across country with my three Springer spaniels to go and help on a shoot for a weekend. The car was loaded up, the dogs were in the back and off we went.

    On the way I could see, in the mirror, my youngest spaniel Fern, eating something which looked like a dog blanket. I thought nothing of it until I arrived at the destination and couldn’t find my game bag. All I could see was the brass buckle from the bag.

    The penny dropped, Fern had eaten the bag.

    So, if you pay a fortune then there’s a fair chance your dog will eat your bag.

    The bag that I have now is the one above. I got this at an army surplus store and it cost next to nothing. It’s a bit tatty, the zips are now seized up, but I can get all of my dog training gear in it, alond with a small flask and some butties. So it does the job.

    It’s made of canvas and is somewhat water resistant and it’s also pretty tough.

    I’ve probably owned it for almost twenty years so it’s paid for itself several times over.

    You will need a bag to carry your gear around with you as you’ll struggle without one.

    Spaniel Training Whistle

    spaniel training whistle

    I struggled to get a great picture of the whistle that I use.  It is an ACME 210.5 whistle, that is specifically aimed at gun dog training.

    In the past I’ve also used the ACME 211.5 whistle which is a slightly higher tone. The number represents the tone that the whistle produces.

    I like these whistles as they are hard wearing and, unlike silent dog whistles, you can hear the ‘peep’ clearly and it is relatively easy to increase the whistle volume by gauging how hard you blow.

    If you watch my training videos on Youtube, you’ll hear that I use a variety of whistle commands when training my spaniels, and this whistle is adaptable to changing tone and whistle types.

    Other trainers may have different preferences when training their dogs, I’ve been using the ACME Dog Training Whistles for 30 years and, apart from losing a few, I’ve never had any problems with them and they are well made and reasonably priced.

    Canvas Gun Dog Training Dummies

     Canvas training dummies are, in my view, an essential item to have when training a spaniel. A key aspect of gun dog training is the act of retrieving and having an item that can be used to create retrieves is a necessity.

    I prefer canvas dummies over plastic ones for several reasons, the main one being that a canvas dummy is soft and pliable making it easier fora dog to pick up and balance in his mouth. 

    Plastic dummies, or bumpers as they are also known, are hard and can potentially hurt a spaniel’s mouth, not to mention that it’s plastic, which I’m not fond of.

    Whatever type of dummy you choose to use you’ll find it really useful if it has a toggle on the end as shown in the photgraph above. The toggle makes it much easier to throw the dummy accurately, thus helping you to create retrieving scenarios for your dog and making your training more productive. You can also use the toggle to carry several dummies at once, so they do make life easier for you.

    I use a variety of canvas dummies, from the size shown above, which is about a pound in weight, to larger, hare sized dummies ( weighing about 3 pounds), and puppy dummies, about half a pound in weight ( shown below)

    canvas training dummies

    Slip Leads

    spaniel slip lead

    Neither of my spaniels wear collars, in fact I’ve never used collars on any of the spaniels that I’ve owned or trained.

    There’s a very good reason for this and you’ll find that it’s common among gun dog owners and trainers for them not to use collars.

    A dog working in the field can easily get caught on debris, cover, fencing, branches and other items when he is away from his handler and there have been cases of working dogs hanging themselves in this manner.

    It’s not worth the risk, so I use a rope based lead, called a slip lead. The picture above is one of my dog’s leads.

    Simple to use and quick to take off and put on, these are strong leads, weather resistant and safe to use.

    As testimony to their durability I still have the slip leads that I purchased back in 1991, and they are almost as good as new.

    Fur and Feather Training Dummies

    fur training dummy

    As your spaniel progresses with his retrieving you’ll need to spice it up a little bit and work on getting him familiar with the smell of fur and feathers, and also the sensation of having these in his mouth.

    After all we will be expecting him to retrieve animals if he is a working dog, so we need to help him to work with these.

    I bought the fur dummy above from Amazon, but, in the past I’ve made them from canvas dummies and rabbit skins, simply stitching the skin onto the dummy.

    Likewise I’ve also made feather dummies from pheasant feathers, holding them onto a canvas dummy with string and elastic bands.

    These types of dummies are also useful for training when we are encouraging a spaniel to use his nose more, particularly if scent is poor when we are training.

    They are also really useful if you are having problems with your spaniel retrieving. Sometimes the added incentive of the fur can be just the thing for a reluctant retriever.

    They give off greater scent levels than normal canvas dummies so they offer you more opportunity with your training exercises.

    Tennis Balls for Retrieving

    tennis balls for retreiving

    I always have some tennis balls with me for retrieving. I don’t make heavy use of these, preferring instead to use the canvas dummies that I have, but, tennis balls can be a useful training aid, and they’re worth having.

    If you have a spaniel that is reluctant to retrieve, then, rolling a tennis ball along the ground, or throwing it, can have a dramatic effect on your dog. Most spaniels , and dogs, love to chase things, and a tennis ball is an exciting item for him to run after.

    Another good use is the create a scent trail for your dog. By spitting on a tennis ball you add your scent to it and make it super smelly to your dog.  You can then roll the ball along the ground, into cover, and, then send your spaniel to retrieve it. 

    This encourages him to get his nose to the ground and scent out the ball.

    Tennis balls are also soft and they float, so they give you yet more options for your spaniel training and I always have a couple of them in the bag.

    Gun Dog Retrieving Aid

    This is an interesting training item that I’ve had to use in the past with spaniels that have been reluctant to retrieve or that liked to run off with the retrieve.

    Basically this is a canvas roll that contains a pouch.

    You get a small dog treat and put it into the pouch, making sure that your dog sees you do this. You then roll the pouch up, and the velcro strips hold it all together. Then, you throw the roll for your dog to retrieve.

    And it works. I was surprised, but the dog that I was struggling with picked the roll up and, with some encouragement, brought it back to me, whereupon I opened it up, took the treat out and gave it to him. rewarding him for bringing it back.

    spaniel retrieving aid

    My experience is that this type of training aid works and will help a spaniel to work out his retrieving so they can be worth the small investment if your dog is struggling with retrieving or is reluctant to fetch.

    Having bought this and used it, I’ve since found it difficult to find online, but, I’ve found the same type of product under a different name on Amazon.

    It does exactly the same job and is called the Dog Activity Prey Dummy.

    You can find them on Amazon and check their price here.

    prey dummy


    Our Recommended Spaniel Training Kit Gear

    You’ll find some of my recommendations below, for training equipment, to help you to get your spaniel training kit together.

    Hopefully this will be helpful and these items should all be reasonably priced.

    These are affiliate links so if you do choose to buy through them I’ll earn a small commission which helps me out.

    Thanks if you do.

    [amazon table=”1391″]

    Update

    I’ve also recently got a starting pistol which is a vital piece of equipment for when we are training a spaniel to be steady to shot.

    It’s a great addition to the ‘toolbox’.

    Read next

  • Cocker Spaniel Crate

    Cocker Spaniel Crate

    When you get your Cocker Spaniel puppy it will be important for him to have his own place, where he can sleep, rest and take time out. 

    This place should be somewhere that helps the puppy to feel safe and secure and it should be his private place.

    Puppies grow at a tremendous rate and you’ll find that after playing furiously and then eating, your spaniel will want to get some rest, and a crate or cage is an ideal place for him to feel safe. Your puppy’s crate should be only used as his safe place and never for housetraining.

    What is the best size crate for a Cocker spaniel?

    When choosing a crate for a Cocker Spaniel, it’s crucial to select one that provides enough space for the dog to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably.

    Cocker Spaniels are typically medium-sized dogs, so you’ll want to consider a crate that is suitable for their size and not too cramped.

    Here are general guidelines for selecting a crate size for a Cocker Spaniel:

    Length: Measure your dog from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail and add about 10-12 cm (4-5 inches) to determine the length of the crate.

    Height: Measure your dog from the top of the head to the ground and add about 5-7 cm (2-3 inches) to determine the height of the crate.

    Width: Ensure that the crate is wide enough for your dog to turn around comfortably.

    Typically, a crate that is approximately 76 cm (30 inches) L x 53 cm (21 inches) W x 61 cm (24 inches) H should be suitable for a Cocker Spaniel.

    However, individual dogs can vary in size, so it’s always best to measure your dog and choose a crate based on those measurements.

    Remember to introduce your Cocker Spaniel to the crate gradually and make it a positive space with toys and comfortable bedding.

    This will help your dog to associate the crate with positive experiences and feel safe and secure when inside it.

    AT A GLANCE – POINTS TO CONSIDER WHEN CHOOSING A COCKER SPANIEL CRATE

    when selecting a crate for a Cocker Spaniel, it’s vital to consider several key points to ensure that the crate is suitable, safe, and comfortable for your dog.

    Here’s a list of important points to consider:

    1. Size of the Crate
      Appropriate Size: Ensure the crate is large enough for your dog to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably.
      Measure Your Dog: Take accurate measurements of your dog’s height, length, and width to select the right-sized crate.
    2. Material and Construction
      Durability: Choose a crate made from durable materials that can withstand chewing and regular use.
      Ventilation: Ensure the crate has adequate ventilation to provide fresh air and prevent overheating.
      Secure Lock: Ensure the crate has a secure lock to prevent accidental escapes.
    3. Comfort and Bedding
      Comfortable Bedding: Consider adding a comfortable bed or padding to make the crate cosy.
      Chew-Proof: Ensure bedding and any toys are durable and safe for your dog, especially if they are prone to chewing.
    4. Portability and Storage
      Weight: Consider the weight of the crate if you plan to travel with it.
      Foldable: A crate that is foldable or easily disassembled can be useful for storage and travel.
    5. Ease of Cleaning
      Removable Tray: A crate with a removable tray can make cleaning easier.
      Washable Bedding: Ensure any bedding is easy to clean and preferably machine washable.
    6. Safety
      No Sharp Edges: Ensure there are no sharp edges or points that could injure your dog.
      Escape-Proof: Ensure your dog cannot easily escape or get stuck in any part of the crate.
    7. Crate Training
      Positive Association: Ensure the crate is associated with positive experiences through training.
      Safe Toys: Consider adding safe toys to make the crate an engaging environment.
    8. Location
      Quiet Place: Place the crate in a quiet and safe location away from heavy foot traffic and noise.
      Temperature: Ensure the crate is placed in an area with a stable and comfortable temperature.
    9. Usage Purpose
      Training: Consider how you will use the crate (e.g., house training, travel, etc.) and ensure it is suitable for that purpose.
      Duration: Be mindful of the duration your Cocker Spaniel spends in the crate to ensure they also get ample exercise and interaction.
    10. Legal and Ethical Considerations
      Animal Welfare: Ensure that the use of the crate adheres to animal welfare guidelines and is not used as a form of punishment or for extended isolation.
    11. Additional Features
      Dividers: Some crates come with dividers which can be useful if you’re crate training a puppy and want the crate to grow with them.
      Doors: Consider the number and type of doors, ensuring easy access for your dog and convenience for you.
    12. Aesthetics
      Design: Choose a crate that fits well with your home décor, especially if it will be placed in a common area.
      Visibility: Ensure your dog can see out of the crate to feel more connected with the environment.

    Is crate training necessary?

    There is a real difference of opinion on what is known as crate training. Many people advocate the use of a crate as a way of house training or ‘potty’ training a puppy. 

    They base this thinking on the idea that a puppy or dog will not goto the toilet in his bed or the place that he is using for rest.

    This is probably true as I would not want to goto the toilet where I slept either.

    My view is that crate training is for lazy people who know little about dogs and care even less about them.

    A crate should be used as a place of safety and comfort for a dog and not as some sort of control to stop him from going to the toilet.

    Housetraining a puppy is easy and should not be a problem for a caring, observant dog owner who thinks about the puppy’s needs.

    If you need to imprison a puppy in a cage to try to train him not to pee in the house then I suggest that you don’t get a dog and buy a goldfish instead.

    Our crate selection for spaniels

    [amazon table=”1251″]

    Should my dog have a bed in his crate?

    Yes, providing a bed or some form of comfortable bedding in your dog’s crate is generally a good idea.

    A bed can make the crate more comfortable and cosy for your Cocker Spaniel, and it can help to encourage positive associations with the crate.

    Here are a few reasons why you might consider placing a bed in your dog’s crate:

    Comfort: A bed can provide cushioning for your dog’s joints and bones, making it more comfortable for them to lie down and sleep.

    Warmth: A bed can help to keep your dog warm, especially during the colder months.

    Security: A bed can provide a sense of security and a familiar scent, which can be particularly comforting when travelling or in unfamiliar situations.

    Encouraging Crate Training: A comfortable bed can make the crate more inviting, which can be helpful when crate training.

    However, there are a few considerations to keep in mind:

    Chewing: Some dogs may chew their bedding, especially puppies or dogs that are not used to being crated. If your dog tends to chew, you might consider providing a chew-resistant bed or waiting until your dog is more accustomed to the crate before introducing bedding.

    Allergies or Skin Conditions: Ensure that the material of the bed does not irritate your dog’s skin and is suitable for any allergies they may have.

    Cleaning: Choose a bed that is easy to clean and, if possible, machine washable, to maintain a clean environment for your dog.

    Size: Ensure that the bed fits well inside the crate without taking up too much space, so your dog still has room to move and turn around comfortably.

    Remember to observe your dog’s behaviour with the bed in the crate and make any necessary adjustments to ensure they are comfortable and safe.

    Dog crates can be useful for spaniels

    Having said my bit about the dinosaurs that use crates for ‘potty training’, I do believe that there are some good uses for a dog crate and that getting a Cocker Spaniel crate can be helpful.

    I own two metal dog cages or crates. They make ideal indoor beds and little kennels for my dogs.

    My two Cocker Spaniels, Boris and Nimrod, are very different in terms of their behaviour.

    Boris has never really spent a great deal of time in a dog cage and, to be honest, doesn’t need to.

    When we got Nimrod, I was working on a holiday park and, as a family, my company provided me with a caravan to live in.

    It was great for my family as they had a free holiday and I didn’t have to travel to and from work.

    When we got Nimrod he needed a bed, somewhere secure where he could sleep, stay warm and be safe.

    Cocker Spaniel Crate
    A crate can be a comfortable and safe place for your dog

    We had an old dog cage that I’d bought locally several years ago and we decided to turn that into his bed.

    It was ideal, we set it up, filled it with old blankets for him, put some of his toys in, and, when we went to bed, put a cover over so that he would stay warm and feel safe and secure.

    Note I didn’t use this for ‘potty training’ nor did I attempt this, this crate/cage was Nimrod’s space and, when he was awake, if he felt tired he’d get in and goto bed – most of the time he dragged his toys out into the caravan.

    Having this cage also meant that if I needed to nip out to the shop I could leave him, safe in the knowledge that he would be okay for a short time.

    So I believe that a dog crate can be useful – for the right purposes.

    Will a crate calm a Cocker spaniel down?

    A crate can indeed be a useful tool in helping to calm a Cocker Spaniel, or any dog, when used correctly.

    Dogs, by nature, are den animals and a crate can serve as a den-like space where they can retreat to when they need a safe, secure, and calm environment.

    What size crate does my dog need?

    Your dog will grow, and he’ll grow quickly if he is still a puppy.

    If you intend to keep your dog cage and let your spaniel use it as ‘his place’ then you will need to allow for his development and growth.

    A typical Cocker Spaniel and most of the other spaniel breeds, will need a crate that is defined as a medium sized crate.

    Measurements tend to be at least 30 inches in length, 24 inches wide and 24 inches high.

    Any crate or cage should be well made and ideally should have a removable base to make cleaning easier.

    The door should open outwards and there should, ideally be two doors.

    If the cage is metal then it helps if the metal is plastic coated as this will reduce the risk of corrosion and injuries.

    Are all dog crates equal?

    Probably not. The quality of steel dog crates can vary enormously and there can be different gaps and thickneses of construction materials.

    It’s important to remember that you will need a crate that will not only be big enough for your dog, but will also be tough enough to prevent him from bending apart the bars and escaping.

    Spaniels can be escape artists and, having had dogs escape from kennels in the past while I was out at work ( I had used the wrong type of fencing on the kennel run and they had simply forced their way out), I recommend that you choose the best quality cage that you can afford,

    Remember the crate/cage is not somewhere for you to lock your dog into for hours on end, you should only use it as a very short term measure while you need to make sure he is safe, and I mean very short term, like less than an hour.

    Cocker Spaniel Crate
    A dog crate should only be used for short periods of time

    Is it cruel to use a crate for a spaniel?

    It depends on you and your ideas of what you use a crate for.

    I’ve already lodged my objections to using crates for housetraining. I feel that this is unnecessary and is a cruel and demeaning way to try and ‘train’ a puppy. You’ll teach him nothing.

    Likewise if you use a crate for punishment – better that you get a hamster than a dog.

    What size crate does a Cocker spaniel need?

    When considering a crate for a Cocker spaniel, it’s important to ensure that it’s both a safe and comfortable space for your dog. The crate should be large enough for your pet to stand, sit, turn around, and lie down comfortably.

    Cocker Spaniels are typically considered a medium-sized breed, and they usually stand about 14-17 inches (36-43 cm) tall at the shoulder, and their length (from the base of the neck to the base of the tail) typically ranges from 12-15 inches (30-38 cm).

    Based on these measurements, a good crate size to start with would be one designed for medium-sized dogs.

    Specifically, a crate that’s approximately 30 inches (76 cm) long, 19 inches (48 cm) wide, and 21 inches (53 cm) high could be a suitable option.

    One of the key advantages of this crate is the included divider. This panel allows you to customise the crate’s size according to your dog’s needs. It ensures that your Cocker spaniel has just the right amount of space, providing a cozy environment that promotes a sense of security and reduces anxiety.

    The crate’s metal construction ensures durability and stability, and the folding design makes it easy to set up and transport, allowing you to conveniently take your pet on trips or store the crate when not in use.

    Additionally, the floor protecting feet and leak-proof dog pan make maintenance hassle-free, preventing leaks from accidents and enabling you to provide a hygienic environment for your pet.

    FAQs

    How can a crate benefit my Cocker spaniel?

    Using a crate for a Cocker spaniel can provide a safe and comfortable den-like space where they can relax and feel secure. It can serve as a retreat for them during times of stress or when they need some alone time. Additionally, crates can be useful for managing separation anxiety or controlling behaviour in certain situations, such as when visitors come over or during travel.

    What size crate should I get for my Cocker spaniel?

    When choosing a crate for your Cocker spaniel, it’s important to consider their size and provide enough space for them to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. Generally, a crate with dimensions around 36 inches in length, 24 inches in width, and 27 inches in height should be suitable for most adult Cockers. However, it’s always best to measure your specific dog and consult the crate sizing guidelines provided by the manufacturer.

    How can I make the crate a positive and inviting space for my Cocker spaniel?

    To make the crate appealing to your Cocker spaniel, you can create a cozy environment by adding a soft bed or blanket, some favourite toys, and perhaps an article of clothing with your scent. You can also encourage your dog to enter the crate by using treats or their meals as rewards. Gradually increasing the time your dog spends in the crate and associating it with positive experiences can help them develop a positive association with the crate.

    How long can I safely leave my Cocker spaniel in a crate?

    Cocker spaniels are social dogs that thrive on human companionship, so it’s generally not recommended to leave them in a crate for extended periods. However, if necessary, adult dogs can typically tolerate being crated for up to 4 to 6 hours during the day, as long as they have had adequate exercise, mental stimulation, and opportunities for bathroom breaks before and after crate time. Puppies, on the other hand, have limited bladder control and should not be crated for more than a few hours at a time.

    Are there any potential risks or concerns associated with using a crate for my Cocker spaniel?

    While crates can be beneficial, it’s important to use them responsibly. Some dogs may develop negative associations with crates if they are used as a form of punishment or confinement for excessively long periods. It’s crucial to provide plenty of exercise, mental stimulation, and social interaction outside of crate time to prevent boredom or frustration. Additionally, always ensure the crate is properly ventilated, free from hazards, and never leave your dog wearing a collar or any restrictive clothing while inside the crate to prevent the risk of entanglement or injury.

    Final words

    Used correctly, as a safe place, which belongs to your dog, a crate can be a useful addition to your home, your spaniel needs a place to call his own and a crate provides that option.

    Use the crate sparingly and allow your spaniel to make it his safe place where he can rest and escape to for a while.

  • Why is my Cocker Spaniel howling? Understanding the Reasons and Solutions.

    Why is my Cocker Spaniel howling? Understanding the Reasons and Solutions.

    Cocker spaniels are adorable and affectionate pets that make great companions.

    They are friendly and playful, and they love to spend time with their owners.

    However, if you notice your Cocker spaniel howling, it can be a cause for concern.

    In this article, we will explore the reasons why Cocker spaniels howl, and provide solutions to stop this behaviour.

    Cocker spaniels may howl for various reasons, including attention-seeking, separation anxiety, medical issues, environmental factors, or breed instincts. Identifying the reason behind the howling and taking appropriate steps to address the issue can help reduce your pet’s anxiety and improve their quality of life.

    Why Is My Cocker Spaniel Howling? Understanding the Reasons

    Cocker spaniels are known to howl for various reasons.

    Understanding why your Cocker spaniel is howling can help you address the underlying issue and find a solution.

    1. Attention Seeking

    Cocker spaniels are social animals that love attention and affection. If they feel ignored or left out, they may start howling to get their owner’s attention.

    This is especially true if you have been away from home for a long time or if you have been too busy to give your pet the attention they need.

    2. Separation Anxiety

    Cocker spaniels are prone to separation anxiety. They may start howling if they feel anxious or stressed when you leave them alone at home.

    This behaviour can also be accompanied by destructive behaviour, such as chewing or digging.

    Why is my Cocker Spaniel howling Understanding the Reasons and Solutions.

    3. Medical Issues

    Cockers may also howl if they are in pain or discomfort. This can be due to medical issues such as arthritis, hip dysplasia, or other health problems.

    If you notice your pet howling more than usual, it’s important to take them to the vet to rule out any medical issues.

    4. Environmental Factors

    They may howl due to environmental factors, such as loud noises or unfamiliar smells.

    This behaviour can be triggered by thunderstorms, fireworks, or other loud noises that scare your pet. They may also howl if they smell a stranger or another animal nearby.

    5. Breed Instincts

    Cockers are bred to be hunting dogs, and they have strong instincts that drive them to hunt and protect.

    They may start howling if they sense danger or if they are in a new or unfamiliar environment. This behaviour is often accompanied by barking and other signs of aggression.

    [content-egg module=AE__etsy template=item_simple]

    Solutions to Stop Your Cocker Spaniel Howling

    Once you have identified the reason why your Cocker spaniel is howling, you can take steps to stop this behaviour.

    1. Attention and Affection

    If your Cocker is howling to get your attention, it’s important to give them the attention and affection they need.

    Spend time playing with your pet, taking them for walks, and cuddling with them on the couch. This will help them feel loved and secure, and may reduce their need to howl for attention.

    2. Reduce Separation Anxiety

    If the howling is due to separation anxiety, there are several things you can do to reduce their anxiety.

    One solution is to provide your dog with an indoor kennel, so they have a safe and secure place to retreat to when you’re not at home.

    You can also leave them with toys and treats to keep them occupied, or hire a pet sitter to spend time with them when you’re away.

    3. Medical Treatment

    If your spaniel is howling due to medical issues, it’s important to seek veterinary care.

    The vet can diagnose the underlying problem and provide appropriate treatment.

    Pain medications, joint supplements, or other treatments may help alleviate your pet’s pain and discomfort.

    4. Address Environmental Factors

    Environmental factors such as loud noises or unfamiliar smells can trigger howling and, if this is the case, then try to reduce their exposure to these triggers.

    Keep your pet indoors during thunderstorms or fireworks displays, and use calming techniques like playing soothing music or using a calming pheromone diffuser to help your pet feel more relaxed.

    5. Training and Socialisation

    If your Cocker spaniel is howling due to breed instincts, training and socialisation can help manage this behaviour.

    Enroll your pet in obedience classes to teach them basic commands and how to behave appropriately in different situations.

    Socialise your pet with other dogs and people to help them feel more comfortable and confident in new environments.

    FAQs

    Is it normal for Cocker Spaniels to howl?

    Yes, Cockers may howl for various reasons, including attention-seeking, separation anxiety, medical issues, environmental factors, or breed instincts.

    How can I stop my Cocker Spaniel from howling?

    The solution to stopping howling depends on the underlying cause.

    If your pet is howling due to attention-seeking behaviour, give them the attention and affection they need.

    If it’s due to separation anxiety, try crate training, leaving them with toys and treats, or hiring a pet sitter.

    If it’s due to medical issues, seek veterinary care. If it’s due to environmental factors, try to reduce their exposure to triggers, and if it’s due to breed instincts, consider training and socialisation.

    When should I be concerned about my Cocker howling?

    If your Cocker is howling excessively, or if their howling is accompanied by other symptoms like lethargy, loss of appetite, or vomiting, it’s important to seek veterinary care.

    These symptoms may indicate a serious underlying medical issue.

    Howling can be a cause for concern for pet owners, but it’s important to understand that this behaviour may have several underlying causes.

    Identifying the reason behind the howling and taking appropriate steps to address the issue can help reduce your pet’s anxiety and improve their quality of life.

    With patience, love, and proper training, you can help your Cocker spaniel to stop howling and be a happy, healthy, and well-behaved pet.

  • Cocker Spaniel Direction Training

    Cocker Spaniel Direction Training

    An important element of Cocker Spaniel training is being able to direct your spaniel when he is out on a retrieve.

    Often, as a spaniel handler, you will need to send your spaniel out to retrieve when he, and sometimes, you, don’t fully know where the retrieve actually is.

    If you can stop and give your dog directions then you will be able to ‘handle’ him to an area where he can pick up scent, enabling him to make his retrieve more efficiently.

    When training a working spaniel, being able to handle your dog onto retrieves is essential. Direction training is always good fun with your dog and, with a little thought you can create a variety of scenarios that will be enjoyable for your spaniel and which will support his learning.

    Why to teach a spaniel directions

    In a competition such as a working test or a field trial, for example, the judge may ask you to retrieve a dummy or piece of game.

    He will give you an idea of where the retrieve sits but, chances are that you’ll be unable to see it.

    This is often the case, particularly in a field trial.

    One of my previous articles spoke about the importance of working with your spaniel’s sense of smell and the importance of considering the wind direction.

    It is important, and vital, that you are able to direct and handle your spaniel to the area that is indicated, while thinking about the wind conditions, so that he can wind and sniff out the retrieve. 

    On a shoot day, the same scenario can occur, only on these occasions you will often be presented with an airy fairy wave of the hand from a gun who tells you something along the lines of ‘It’s over there somewhere’ or ‘I’m sure I hit it and it went down round there‘.

    So, being able to get your spaniel to the area, where he can pick up the scent, is important and is a vital part of all gundog training and activity.

    cocker spaniel direction training

    How to teach a spaniel directions

    Spaniel direction training work is easier than you might think but it takes some time and needs regular practice.

    If you have spent some time with your spaniel working on the sit or hup command at a distance then you, by now, should be able to sit him down and walk away from him without him getting up.

    If you can’t yet do this then spend some time on the exercise before moving onto this activity.

    I know that it’s tempting to rush into more exciting stuff, but take your time and make sure that your dog sits at a distance for you.  It will be worth it in the long run.

    You need your spaniel to be steady to the thrown dummy for the directional training to be effective, so it pays to take some time to make sure that your spaniel sits down and stays where he is until, told otherwise.

    When your dog is ready, then this is how we begin to teach direction training for handling.

    Managing the direction

    Most, if not all of us, have seen policemen directing traffic, or we have a good idea of the concept.

    He puts his arm out to the right which means ‘Go Right‘….arm to the left, ‘Go Left‘..pretty simple..

    So, it’s the same principle when we are training a spaniel, or any gundog for that matter, we just have to do a bit extra to help the dog to build the link.

    Go to your training area. You will need to take some training dummies with you.

    If you don’t have any dog training dummies then I’d suggest that you try to get hold of some, you really need them for your spaniel training.

    I like to use the canvas dummies as they are better for a spaniel’s mouth.

    You’ll need some dummies for directional work

    Beginning the training

    When you have your dummies, take at least three with you, sit your dog down in front of you and walk back from the dog, about ten feet is enough.

    Facing your spaniel, remind him to hup and make sure that he does, and, when you are sure that he is settled, throw one of your dummies over his head, so that it goes behind him.

    If he makes a break and runs for the dummy, get after him and try to catch him before he reaches it.

    If you can do this then take him gently back to the spot where he should have been sat, and sit him down, reminding him to ‘Hup‘.

    If he gets to the dummy before you, then take it from him quietly, and try again.

    Cocker Spaniel Direction Training

    Working on the understanding that he didn’t run in, take the next dummy and throw it to his left and then the next and throw it to his right.

    Dogs generally remember the last thing that happened most, so the last dummy thrown will be foremost in his mind, so let’s make things easy.

    With a clear arm signal from you, in the direction of the last dummy thrown, send him for the dummy with the ‘Fetch’ command.  Let him work it out and he should retrieve the dummy to hand.

    Sit him down again in his starting spot, and, when he is settled, with a clear arm signal and the ‘Fetch’ command – send him out to the opposite side for the other dummy.

    Again, take it from him when he brings it in, sit him down. 

    Finally, send him back. I’ve covered the ‘get back’ or ‘back’ command and hand signal in this post which introduced the spaniel to going back – you can read it via this link.

    All being good, he’ll bring the dummy in.

    (One word on this – think about the wind – ideally the wind needs to be blowing towards you – just makes it easier for the dog).

    Vary your directional spaniel training handling

    As you practice this training with your spaniel, change the order in which you send him off for the dummies.

    Mix it up and keep it varied. When he is sat down, go and pick one of the dummies up yourself, or, if you have another dog with you, send that dog instead.

    Cocker Spaniel Direction Training

    One of our aims with spaniel training is to teach steadiness and patience, we also don’t want a spaniel to anticipate too much what is likely to be asked of him.

    If you keep it varied then he can’t guess too much and anticipate.

    Likewise, when he has retrieved a dummy back to you, throw it back out, then send him for one of the others.

    This helps him to ignore the last dummy thrown, which will be of most interest to him as it’s foremost in his mind. 

    If he makes a break for the last dummy then try to intercept him before he reaches it and, take him back to his spot, and try again.

    Don’t be rough with him or frighten him and, if he reaches the dummy before you intercept him, act as though nothing has happend and take the dummy off him as a normal retrieve.

    Some spaniels can be easily deterred from retrieving so it is important that you never tell him off or show disapproval when he has something in his mouth ( even if it is your best pair of shoes).

    Cocker Spaniel Direction Training

    Practice your gundog direction training

    As with all other gundog and spaniel training, it is important to practice direction training regularly with your dog.

    Ten minutes frequently is better than one hour weekly. A young spaniel’s attention span can be limited and long sessions can become tiring and tedious.

    Go to different locations, with different types of terrain and ground cover so that your dog gets used to and familiar with different types of ground cover.

    Don’t go anywhere where the cover is tough or too thick, you just want your young spaniel to experience different types and to get used to being given directions in different areas.

    Final Words

    With time, and practice, you’ll find that your spaniel will understand your directions and you will be able to work him in the direction that you need.

    Your spaniel will be on his way to becoming a well trained and well behaved gundog, and with regular, fun training and experience, a competent, capable working spaniel.

  • How to get a spaniel to quarter

    How to get a spaniel to quarter

    The key activity of any working spaniel is to hunt the ground, using the wind effectively to help him to find and flush game.

    It’s not a difficult thing to achieve with a working bred dog.

    Most working spaniels will actively seek to hunt without needing much encouragement from their owner. When training a spaniel to hunt you will be looking to help him to work a good, tight pattern while using the wind so that he becomes a skilled and competent hunter

    Your spaniel needs to hunt naturally

    Getting a spaniel to quarter and hunt effectively is something that some spaniel handlers and trainers seen to struggle with, and a miriad of solutions are often suggested to get a young dog to hunt to a pattern.

    Some of these ‘solutions’ involve throwing out pieces of bread or biscuits side to side to try and get the dog to move from left to right and then back again while the handler walks forward.

    I’ve never really understood the thinking behind this as really it doesn’t teach a spaniel anything.

    All you end up with is a dog that looks at the handler, in expectation for a biscuit, which it then chases after when it it thrown, to then stick his nose in the ground sniffing for it, then scoffing it and, becoming chubby.

    It’s not teaching a young dog to hunt.

    How to get a spaniel to quarter

    Don’t treat your dog like a robot

    Concern over hunting pattern should not be a priority with a young spaniel.

    We want him hunting, using the wind and his nose effectively.

    Too many spaniel trainers focus on perfect hunting patterns resulting in a robotic like dog which doesn’t scent out game but follows a perfect pattern and probably finds game by accident and misses lots.

    We want our spaniel to be a hunter, a game finder and a dog that knows it’s job rather than one that looks pretty, goes through the motions and wastes time.

    Quartering with a spaniel

    Our dog should be confident and old enough to take out, there’s little point trying this when the dog is still a baby.

    Ideally we want a spaniel to be confident when you take him out and he should be able to get away from being under your feet.

    Most dogs will be around 6 months old or older when we begin to introduce some structure to their hunting.

    Try and find a piece of ground or an area which is quite open and has some light cover, such as bracken or rushes or light grass. 

    I’m quite fortunate where I am as there are many open areas nearby with various types of cover, ideal for spaniels of all ages.

    Don’t be tempted to try your dog in thick cover at this stage because you want to keep your spaniel in sight at all times.

    Your focus is to encourage your dog to work to some sort of pattern while using the wind.

    You won’t be able to do this if the cover is too heavy.

    working cocker spaniel

    Try to make sure that there is no game around

    As a first step you need to make sure that there is no game around, it’s fine for there to be scent, but not too much.

    You don’t want your spaniel finding anything at this time, you certainly don’t want to be having any chasing.

    You can use an older, trained dog to clear the game, and this would be good training for an older dog, or you can walk the ground yourself to make sure.

    Once you are happy go and get your young spaniel.

    Take him to the area that you are going to use, sit him down (hup) facing into the wind. 

    Take his lead off and tell him to ‘Get On’

    It is important that at this early stage that you always work him into the wind, with the wind blowing towards you.

    This ensures that scent blows towards your spaniel.

    As you set him off, the chances are that he will run off to one side or the other, and, as he does, using your whistle, give a short sharp ‘peep’, shout his name and with your arm indicate the opposite way to encourage him to change direction, at the same time start walking in that direction too.

    All being well, your spaniel will come running across you.

    As soon as he gets about 10 to 15 feet past then ‘peep’ again, call his name again, indicate with your other arm and change direction, so that he comes past you again going to opposite way.

    So, in this way we are walking forwards, into the wind, with the dog moving left to right and back again as we head towards the wind.

    This is the basics of teaching a spaniel to quarter.

    Maintain this ‘zig zag’ movement and you should find it reasonably easy to keep your spaniel hunting and moving across your path.

    As you progress with these  quartering lessons do about ten minutes at a time when you go out.

    As time passes, eventually your spaniel will get the idea and you will be able to stop walking in your zig zag pattern and will be able to walk in a straight line while your spaniel quarters ahead of you.

    Spaniel quartering training in bracken

    Don’t rush your spaniel hunting

    When you are out hunting and quartering training a spaniel you must never walk forward too quickly.

    If you are tempted to walk forward to fast then you will quickly destroy any hunting pattern that your spaniel has developed.

    By moving forward too quickly you are preventing the dog from hunting and covering his ground properly.

    He will be tempted to pull out ahead of you, in a straight line, to get away from you and create space.

    You must give him time to work and cover the ground in front of him.

    How to get a spaniel to quarter

    Don’t blow the whistle for the sake of it.

    If you are consistent with your spaniel quartering training then, quite soon, your spaniel will turn of his own accord.

    With practice you will be able to change direction yourself, towards an interesting patch of cover perhaps, and your dog will change his hunting pattern to suit.

    My English Springer Spaniel, Twig, was great at this.

    Not only was she a superb hunter, but she would keep an eye on me and, all I had to do was look at a patch of cover and she was in.

    It was rare that I needed to give hand or arm directional signals with her hunting.

    Aim to get this type of ‘connection’ with your spaniel so that you are keeping directional signals, when hunting, to a minimum.

    getting a spaniel quartering

    Spaniel pulling ahead when hunting

    When you are out hunting with your spaniel there will be times when he pulls out ahead of you, often in a straight line.

    If you watch him carefully, and you’ll soon get good at spotting the sign, you’ll see that he raises his nose and catches wind of a scent, or, he has his nose down to the floor – in the latter case called ‘lining’.

    You don’t want him to do this when he is hunting so, whistle him back towards you with the recall whistle and, as he gets close, swing him off to one side in the direction that you need him to go.

    When you can do this you are on the way to a good, hunting spaniel that you can work with to develop a useful pattern.

    Keep spaniel work interesting and varied

    Your spaniel training should be varied and interesting.

    Mix up hunting and quartering training with other activities, such as sitting at distance, retrieving, blind retrieves etc.

    While out quartering and hunting training, it is a good idea to stop your spaniel occasionally, telling him to ‘hup’ and raising your hand signal.

    When he drops walk up to him slowly and praise him.

    On occasions, throw a dummy for him, watch that he doesn’t run in ( chase it). Then send him for his retrieve. 

    Vary this and sometimes pick the dummy up yourself, or, if you have another dog, send that one.

    I use canvas dummies when spaniel training.

    They are robust, soft and the dogs can pick them up easily. I get a lot of my training dummies from Amazon and you can find some good ones via this link.

    This helps our spaniel to develop patience and stops him from anticipating our commands.

    Don’t stop him too much when hunting and don’t throw the dummy too often – if you do this then he will become ‘sticky’ and will keep watching you for the stop command or to see when and where you are throwing the dummy.

    Using a check cord for spaniel quartering

    Some spaniel trainers recommend the use of ‘check cords’ when teaching a young spaniel how to hunt and quarter.

    A check cord, is in essence, a long line of string that is attached to the spaniel which is in the region of 30 feet in length.

    The idea is that when you ‘peep’ your whistle, you pull the string to ‘make’ the dog turn in the direction that you want.

    It seems a bit pointless to me to use this type of thing. 

    Firstly, it would be a nightmare, getting tangled up in stuff when hunting.

    Secondly, dog’s are not that stupid.

    Most spaniels would know when and where a cord is being used and, as soon as the cord is taken off, they’d be off, full in the knowledge that his  handler is helpless and unable to control him.

    Better to work with your spaniel off the lead, work on the basics, and do the hard work to show him what is needed.

    Relax and have fun

    Just relax with your spaniel. If you are out in the open and you can see him while he is hunting, and there is little chance of him finding and chasing something, then you are okay.

    Work on his turn whistle, keep him near to you, think about the wind direction and keep it varied.

    A check cord is unnecessary and you don’t need to use one, and, if your spaniel is so out of control that you feel it is necessary, then you need to stop your training and go right back to the beginning.

    How to get a spaniel to quarter

    Problems when teaching a spaniel to quarter

    There are some problems that can occur when we are teaching a spaniel to quarter.

    Introducing a new exercise to a young dog can create some anxiety for some spaniels and you’ll soon spot this.

    While you are out with him, after a few ‘peeps’ on your whistle, he’ll slow down and maybe even stop, his tail will go down and he’ll look uncertain.

    All you need to do is encourage him. Stop the quartering training, let him run free for a while until he starts wagging his tail again, and have a break for a few days.

    Think about why this might have happened.

    Have you been pushing too hard?  

    What is the scent like? Scent for a spaniel is everything, try a different location if you have consistent problems with a specific area.

    Is the weather bad, too wet, windy, hot etc. Extremes of weather can be tricky for training, particularly for a young dog. If the weather is bad then have a break until it improves.

    Are you making too much noise when training?

    Are you nagging your spaniel and making him anxious? 

    Don’t do quartering training when the weather is hot.

    If you need to go out and train when the weather could be hot then go out early, before the temperature rises.

    Otherwise just give your spaniel a break – or make the most of the warm weather and do some water work instead.

    Final Words

    Hunting is great fun and both you and your spaniel will love it. As your dog becomes more skilled take him to different places to build his experience. Rushes, bracken and fallen trees and bushes are great for spaniels to hunt through.

    Avoid the hot weather and keep things interesting for your dog.