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I have found that Cocker spaniels, like most spaniels love water.

My Cocker spaniels will find any open water that they can when we are out and, inevitably, get in and either paddle around, swim or put their heads under the water and pull stones and rocks out.

With years of working breeding this means that the majority of Cocker spaniels instinctively like water and, as a result, as a Cocker owner you are going to need plenty of old towels.

Introducing a Cocker spaniel to water

Although the majority of Cocker and other spaniels love water, it is important to introduce a young dog to water carefully so as not to frighten or alarm him.

There are many tales of ‘trainers’ simply throwing dogs into water when they are young, with the idea that this is the best way.

This is certainly the best way to scare the life out of a young spaniel and, one thing for sure, is that he will be forever wary of water for the rest of his life if you follow this ‘training’ advice.

The best way to get a young dog into water

By far the easiest and safest way to get a young spaniel into water is to take him out on a warm day, if you have another dog that likes water then take that dog along too. 

Go somewhere where the water is not dangerous and where it is gentle and shallow, a small stream or shallow pond would be ideal.

Let your spaniel run and play, throw a ball for him, get him enjoying his surroundings and get him nice and warm.

Cool water is a great way to help your spaniel to stay comfortable on a hot day and can help to prevent heatstroke and other heat related problems.

Take him into the shallows, paddle with him and encourage him into the water. Chances are he’ll follow you in and begin to enjoy himself.

If you take another dog then let your young spaniel chase him and play, get the older dog into the water and encourage the youngster to get in too.

With patience, persistence and frequent trips to the water your spaniel will soon begin to enjoy himself.

If you are lucky enough to live near to the sea, then trips to the beach are often adored by dogs. Like children they seem to know and can hardly wait to get to the beach.

This is true of my Cockers who love the sea, digging and running on the beach.

Getting a spaniel retrieving from water

Once your spaniel is confident in getting into water and is swimming strongly we can begin to think about retrieving from water.

Your Cocker should already be retrieving on land keenly before we look at water work.

If we are happy that our dog will swim and will keenly retrieve a dummy on land then we can look at water retrieves and water work.

It is best to start with shallow water, where the dog can wade in without swimming and where the water flows slowly so that the dummy is not washed away.

Sit your spaniel on the bank and let him see you throw a dummy into the water so that he can mark it.

Send him with the usual command of ‘fetch’ and, all being well, he should run out, into the water, collect the dummy and bring it to hand.

When to do water training

If we do our water retrieving exercises on a warm day, when the puppy is warmed up, we reduce any reluctance to get into the water.

Only do the exercise once, if he is unsuccessful, stop and try again another day.

As our spaniel becomes more proficent and confident with his water work, we can look to increase the depth of the water and get him swimming for retrieves that are floating.

We can also send him across the stream to the other bank to collect a retrieve that has fallen there – so he swims across, picks the retrieve and then swims back ( or wades ).

Always remember that water is dangerous and never place yourself or your spaniel at unnecessary risk.

FAQs

When working with our spaniel it is helpful and probably vital to try and understand just how the dog’s sense of smell affects how he does things and how scent and scenting conditions affect his performance and ability to do his job.

It has been known for many years that dogs possess incredible smelling ability and have superb senses of smell, but just how great is it?

The former director of the Sensory Research Institute at Florida State University gives us an idea.

Dogs have an incredible sense of smell

From another perspective…dogs can detect some odours in parts per trillion.

In her book Inside of a Dog, (which you can see here on Amazon), the author, Alexander Horowitz, tells us that we might notice if our coffee has a teaspoon of sugar in it, but a dog could detect that teaspoon of sugar in a million gallons of water, or two Olympic sized swimming pools.

I also heard a recent report that suggested that we might walk into grandma’s house and smell her cooking and recognise it as beef stew.

If we take our dog, not only would he smell the stew but he’d also smell every single ingredient in the stew, the beef, carrots, dumplings, flour, etc etc.

Boris and Nimrod my two Cocker spaniels certainly demonstrate incredible smelling senses.

Normally when I am trying to sneak a snack they can be upstairs asleep, silently I open the fridge, unwrap the cheese carefully so that I cannot be heard.

Within seconds the sound of spaniel paws rattle across the landing and down the stairs, before they both make an appearance, expectantly waiting for a cheesy nibble.

I can only attribute it to their sense of smell. (Unless they have a secret fridge alarm).

I’m truly amazed by the things that dogs can do with their noses, from rescue dogs, through to drug and explosive dogs, cancer detection dogs and, of course spaniels.

Consider the effects of scent with your spaniel

In working with spaniels and any other working dog, it’s really important to consider the effects of scent and scenting conditions and how they affect our dog.

They really do occupy different worlds when we consider just how much their sense of smell governs their behaviour, so as humans and spaniel trainers we need to appreciate and adapt our training to accommodate this.

In thinking about this there are various ways that we can work with our dog to help him to trust his sense of smell while in the field, and, with some thought and understanding on our part, not only can we help him but we can learn too.

This short article on Nova gives some insight into a dog’s sense of smell

Your spaniel’s nose is his world, help him to understand it

Scenting conditions can affect your spaniel

Unless we are a dog, or have developed a secret, undisclosed way of communicating with dogs, then, as humans, we cannot possibly fully understand scent.

As humans, our world is governed, predominantly by what we see and our other senses take lower places in the order of importance.

For your spaniel, and for that matter, any breed of dog, his world is determined by his sense of smell, his other senses are less important to him.

Scent can vary from day to day, even from hour to hour, and place to place. In many areas scent can vary from very good through to questionable to bad.

So, it is difficult to fully understand how it really works and is only possible to try and explain what is known about scent and how our spaniels react to it.

Nature and scent

When we consider nature and wildlife and the role of survival, we realise that one species eats another to maintain its existence.

Most animals survive through the use of camouflage and by staying as still as possible.

As an example, hares will sit solid in an area that they feel is safe.

Often among rushes, facing into the wind, so that the wind does not ruffle his fur up and that he can smell anything coming towards him.

While he is sat still he is giving off minimal, if any, scent and is for the main, almost invisible to predators.

This strategy is adopted by almost every species of animal in the wild.

This is one of the reasons why, when we are teaching a spaniel to hunt, we insist and make him hunt every inch of his ground, getting the wind into his nose, with enough time to do his job and find the game that may be ‘tucked in’ and hiding.

Weather and scent

The weather can have a dramatic effect on scenting conditions for spaniels. In just a small area scent can be really varied.

A dip in the ground on a windy day will hold scent better than the open areas that are exposed to the breeze.

Rushes, such as the ones that I regularly take Boris and Nimrod to, hold scent really well.

Extreme weather conditions are bad for scent.

Frosty ground before the sun has warmed it is difficult for spaniels, but, the same ground, later in the day when warmed by the sun, can be really good for scent.

Heavy and torrential rain will pretty much destroy any scent that existed beforehand, as will fresh snow.

High winds and hot weather reduce scent considerably.

Generally, if the weather is ‘in between’ the above, then scenting conditions will be good for your spaniel.

It’s tricky to describe but with attention and experience you’ll come to recognise the differences in your spaniel’s behavior.

If your dog has a good nose then he will be more affected by changes in scenting conditions than a dog that is less capable.

Scenting conditions

As spaniel handlers it is important to make allowances for changes in scenting conditions and to be aware that they occur.

Wind and scent are two of the most important considerations when working a spaniel and, if as handlers and trainers, we remember this, then our dog will learn valuable lessons and will understand that he can and must trust his nose.

As a spaniel trainer, you must take time to understand scent and wind and how it affects your dog.

If you do then, trust me, your dog will learn how to adjust his hunting and retrieving to suit you, the weather and the ground conditions.

Scent and retrieving

Scenting conditions play a big part in blind retrieves for spaniels and it is important to think about wind conditions and directions when dealing with retrieves.

When sending our dog we need to think about wind direction. Our aim is to always aim for the retrieve to be between our spaniel and the wind.

So. If the wind is coming from our left and a bird is shot and down, or the dummy is thrown, we should aim to get our spaniel to the right of the fall.

By doing this we increase the chances of a successful retrieve without needing to handle the dog.

The wind will blow over the retrieve, towards the dog, who, we hope, will pick up the scent and find the retrieve himself.

Boris and Nimrod, my two Cockers, demonstrate this nicely in the video below.

In the first section of the video, the wind is coming from the left, the dummy is in the centre.

If I were to send Boris to the left then he would not get the scent due to the wind direction and I’d have to stop him and direct him over to the dummy – this would be tough as he would want to pull into the wind.

Likewise, if I were to send him directly towards the dummy he would likely pull to the left, again into the wind.

The solution was to send him off to the right.

This makes sure that he is downwind of the dummy, that the wind is blowing over the dummy towards him so increasing massively the opportunity for him to pick up the scent and find the dummy on his own – which is precisely what we want to happen.

If you watch the video carefully, after I have stopped Boris, you’ll see his nose go up, and it’s clear that he picks up the scent.

He then goes straight to the dummy and brings it to hand.

The next section is with Nimrod.

He is much younger than Boris so, to keep things easier for him the dummy was thrown into the wind and Nimrod was sent for it. 

The wind is blowing directly into his face and you can see that he is working, picking up the scent, losing it, then picking it up again, until he finds the retrieve and brings it in.

Again, a good exercise for a spaniel, where he works it out for himself, with little direction or interference from the handler ( me ).

Consider the wind direction and create exercises for your dog

With a little thought and the use of opportunities when we are out and about with our dogs, we can create scenarios that help the dog to learn.

It’s vital for a spaniel to trust his nose and as a spaniel trainer you need to spend time on this type of work to help him to learn.

I don’t know about you but I can barely smell a training dummy when I press it against my nose.

For a spaniel to smell the same dummy from 40 yards away is, frankly, incredible in my view.

Enjoy working with your spaniel, get scent up his nose and help him to learn to trust his abilities.

He’ll be a great dog and you’ll both have fun learning together.

Why do spaniels need to be able to perform blind retrieves?

One activity that your spaniel will have to perform well is retrieving.

At times and probably very often many of these retrieves will be unseen by your dog, and at times you, this is what we call ‘blind’ or a ‘blind retrieve’.

The purpose of teaching blind retrieves

There may be occasions, particularly if we are in a competition such as a trial or on a shoot, where there may be a bird down that needs picking and we don’t know where it is.

In a situation such as a competition, ie field trial, it may be the case that a dog has already been tried on the retrieve and has failed, so we are called over to attempt the retrieve also.

If we find it successfully then our competitor will be out and we will gain extra credit for the work.

In these circumstances we will be given some idea of the area in which the game lies, to give us at least some chance of success.

Or we could be on a shoot and have some role in performing picking up duties ( collecting game that has been shot). Normally this involves dogs conducting retrieves.

Shoots can be a free for all for some dogs, with many acting simply as ‘hoovers’ running around loose, collecting as much game as they can, sometimes snatching birds from other dogs, I’ve even seen dogs fight over retrieves on some shoots.

So, if you are working on a shoot, it is best to speak to one of the guns and ask if they have any birds down away from the general melee, and then work your spaniel in that area.

The whole point of gundog retrieving is to ensure that all game, or as much as is practically possible, is collected, and that any injured game is found and despatched quickly to prevent suffering.

I’ve been in both situations, in competition and shoot work, where birds have been shot and have fallen into areas where neither myself nor my dog have been or seen.

I’ve had to go in, with my spaniels, and recover the game.

This requires handling of the dog, awareness of the wind and scenting conditions, and, above all other things, an understanding of the spaniel and complete trust in his nose and ability.

Teaching blind retrieves to spaniels

Before we think about progressing onto blind retrieves our spaniel will already be retrieving to hand and will ideally be steady to the thrown dummy.

We should possess an array of training dummies, ideally the canvas type as these are softer and hold scent better than plastic or other solid training aids. Tennis balls are also good.

You should have a selection of training dummies

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As a basic starter, walk the spaniel, on the lead or leash ( whichever you prefer to say), preferably in an area where there is some cover, such as rushes, light grass or light woodland.

Take one of your dummies and drop it into some cover, letting your spaniel see the dummy fall to the ground.

Keeping your spaniel on his lead, carry on walking, away from the dummy.

( note: it helps if you can ‘mark’ where the dummy is yourself, such as near a stick or particular tree trunk for example. This is simply to help you to find the dummy yourself, if your dog struggles – dummies are expensive and this is a lesson that I have learned).

When you are about twenty yards from the dummy, sit your spaniel down, take his lead off quietly, and send him for the retrieve using the ‘fetch’ command and pointing your right arm out in the direction of the dummy.

Your dog will run out and, chances are, he’ll miss the dummy and begin hunting for it when he reaches the general area.

If he picks it straight away then, great, good start, make the next one slightly more difficult.

Trusting your dog

Unless we have taught our spaniel to stop on the whistle and take hand signals we won’t be able to intervene in his quest for the dummy.

We need to let him look for it, trusting that he will use his nose to locate the dummy.

He may pull away from the area, casting himself into the wind to try and pick up the scent – this is a good sign, he’s thinking about it – he knows that the dummy is there, he saw you drop it and he knows that he is to retrieve it – you told him to – so he’s now trying to find it for you.

He may stop and look at you for confirmation – if he does then repeat the ‘fetch’ command and move forwards towards him, encouraging him to ‘fetch’. 

It is important that he succeeds with this and we may even need to get close to the dummy to ensure that he retrieves it. Like all things with your spaniel that are new, slow and easy, always finish on a high with success.

When he gets the dummy and brings it to hand give him lots of praise and fuss.

Get your dog to use his nose

We’re aiming to get the spaniel using his nose and learning how to use the wind direction to pick up scent.

We cannot tell him about scent or how to smell things, we can only create conditions and scenarios to help him to learn how to use his superior scenting senses in a way that develops him into a good working spaniel and gundog.

As we progress with our exercises we can use different types of dummies, such as fur or feather,which will have different smells for your spaniel to become familiar with.

We can also use tennis balls.

If you spit on a tennis ball and then roll it along the ground, you will create a scent trail for your spaniel to pick up, if the ball goes into cover then you are also creating a ‘blind’ type of retrieve. Another lesson for your dog.

Like all things we are seeking to expand his mind, increasing his knowledge, experience and his overall skill.

If we think creatively and make use of simple opportunities when we are out ‘spanielling’ with our dogs then we can quickly and easily make progress.

Handling and directions on blind retrieves

There is a place for handling while performing blind retrieves with your gundog, but this only really applies if you, as the handler, have an idea of where the retrieve lies.

You may have seen the bird or dummy fall into a certain area, or you may have been told by someone else roughly where the retrieve sits.

If we trust our spaniel and he knows how to use his nose and work the scent, then all we really need to do is get him to the area where the retrieve lies.

We should be able to let him get on with his job.

Before we consider intervening and stopping and directing the dog on retrieves of this type, we need to consider whether we have been given correct information about the retrieve.

Is it actually there? Has the person that told us given us accurate information? Have I seen properly, am I sure that it is there? Is the retrieve dead? Could it have been injured and run off?

I’ve been caught out more than once with this.

I recall being in a spaniel stake in North Yorkshire many years ago.

My English Springer bitch Twig was a great working spaniel.

We were working a patch of dead bracken and she’d flushed a couple of pheasants that had been shot, she made good work of both retrieves which were blind as they had fallen over the crest of a mound out of view.

The dog to our left had a bird down which had been shot be their gun, the bird fell over a dry stone wall, into a patch of rushes.

The dog went out quickly, over the wall and hunted for the bird for a good five minutes until it was called in, having failed to locate the bird.

Twig and I were called over to try. 

At this point I was informed that the bird was a ‘runner’ – it had been shot but was not dead and had ‘run off’ – hence runner.

The gun told me that he had seen the bird fall into some rushes so I sent Twig into them, she made short work of the rushes and began to pull away along a faint game trail with her nose down. 

The gun was insistent that the bird was in the rushes, so I stopped her and sent her back in.

She looked at me as though saying ‘It’s not there’ but I maintained and sent her back in.

Again she bashed them around and set off along the game trail with her nose down.

We failed on that retrieve because I listened to the gun ( who failed to kill the bird with his shot) and didn’t listen or trust the dog.

I learned from this lesson and Twig and I went onto get several field trial awards in later competitions.

Learn from your dog

Learn to trust your dog. Give him lots of opportunities in training to hunt out and find retrieves.

Place dummies in different types of cover, gradually making them more difficult to find.

Make use of different weather conditions, from drizzle to pouring with rain, sun to snow, sleet and hail.

Wind and breeze to borderline hurricane.

Goto different places and use different types of cover. Try rushes, deep grass, light grass, woodland, bracken, brambles, heather.

Get your spaniel familiar with different cover types and weather conditions.

Get him using his nose and give him every opportunity to use his nose in as many different environments as you can.

I mention using a fur dummy for spaniel training and this is a photo of the one that I use. I bought this from Amazon a few years ago and it’s worn well.

You could also make one from a standard canvas dummy and stich fur or fur replacement onto it.

Boris my Cocker spaniel demonstrates a blind retrieve

Out in the woods near to home with Boris and Nimrod. A wet day with the wind blowing from behind my right.

I’ve placed the fur skinned dummy near to the roots of a fallen tree, about thirty yards away. Boris doesn’t know that it is there.

I’ve used the fur dummy as it has more scent and this was a really wet day, I wanted Boris to get this right first time.

I’ll send Boris out for the retrieve, using the command that I use’ fetch’.

Now, as the wind is coming from behind me, chances are that Boris will need to get beyond the dummy in order to ‘wind’ it (pick up it’s scent). The wind has a slight ‘right hand’ aspect to it, so he’ll probably pull over to the left as well.

The video shows Boris in action, using the wind and picking the retrieve.

You’ll see that I stop Boris mid retrieve and handle him using the command ‘back’ to get him into the wind so that he smells and picks the dummy up.

I’ll cover the stop whistle and directional commands in future posts. I just want to show you the importance of the wind and your dog’s nose in the blind retrieve process.

Hopefully the video will help and will give you some ideas for getting your spaniel working and developing his senses.

I had an interesting experience with my dog Nimrod, who, at the time of this article was 8 months when we went out for a spot of spaniel training.

I took him to the woods near to home rather than our usual training area on the fell, as the weather was really wet and there was a lot of low cloud on the top of the fell, so the woods seemed like a safe choice.

I also had my daughter Kate with me as she wanted to do a bit of training with our other Cocker, Boris.

This was the first time that Kate came along when I’ve been doing some training with Nimrod.

Although Nimrod will retrieve really nicely for me, he’s reluctant to do this for Kate, so, I’d set up the seeds for a problem.

Nimrod the Cocker Spaniel does a runner with the dummy and tries to bury it..!

Normally Nimrod is fine with his retrieves. Although he was only a young dog at the time ( he’s eight months old), he had come on well and, for a spaniel youngster, he’s really keen to pick things up and bring them to hand for me.

On this occasion Nimrod decided that he would run off with the dummy, dig a hole at the base of a tree, and bury it.

I have to say that I was too busy laughing at the actions of this young Cocker spaniel to do anything constructive about it.

In the case of Nimrod, I’d not really thought things through properly before beginning the training session, and a combination of things probably resulted in Nimrod ‘nobbing off and digging holes to hide the dummy in’.

Firstly, I’d changed the location of training.

Rather than going to the fell where we normally train, I’d taken the dogs to the woods ( where we often go just for exercise ). 

Now agreeably a gundog should be able to adapt to lots of different places when working, but, with a young dog, particularly a sensitive puppy like Nimrod, you need to tread carefully.

Secondly, I had Kate with me. Kate and Nimrod are good buddies and Nimrod tends to take advantage of Kate whenever he can.

Kate doesn’t often come training with me and Nimrod probably thought that today was more ‘play day’ than training, and that he could ‘try it on’ a bit. 

Thirdly, I’d used a fur dummy rather than the regular canvas one that I tend to use.

Often a dog that is great with ‘boring’ canvas dummies will get possessive over more interesting fur or feather dummies.

They smell good, taste different and have a much more interesting appeal to a young dog.

So, on reflection, I’d made perhaps too many changes for little Nimrod to process.

How to deal with gundog retrieving issues

You’ll find that you experience bad days with your spaniel. There will be times when it doesn’t seem to work. Take a breath and think it through carefully.

Have you made any changes? Clearly I had and Nimrod reacted to them.

Think – is the dog on par? If he is unwell or otherwise, then leave it until he recovers.

Are there distractions? Today I had Kate with me and Nimrod wasn’t used to this.

I’d changed to a fur dummy and clearly Nimrod decided that he was going to try and ‘keep the treasure’.

What’s the weather like? Yes, strange as it may seem the weather can affect your spaniel. I have had spaniels that go totally bonkers when the wind is wild.

Maybe something happens with their hearing but when it’s windy stay on your toes, your spaniel may go nuts.

Use the recall whistle

Your dog should be familiar with the recall and reliably come back to you when it is blown.

Nimrod is a good boy when the recall is blown and he almost knocks me over as he gallops back.

Today he didn’t do that.

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If the dog disobeys the recall when retrieving it is really important that we don’t engage in a game of chase.

If we try to approach him when he is reluctant to come up with the dummy, then, chances are he’ll run off, thus you end up with a chase me scenario which is great fun for the dog and totally frustrating for you.

The best strategy is to walk or run away from the dog, while giving the recall whistle and calling his name.

When all that fails

In the end I had to get close to Nimrod, when I was confident that he couldn’t escape or run away with the retrieve.

Without making a fuss I took the dummy off him and moved to a different location where we tried again.

A different dummy and a different result

Sometimes, just a small change with a young dog can make a massive difference with his retrieve.

The next video shows Nimrod getting his retrieving back on track.

What had changed?  Simply rather than use the fur dummy I reverted back to the small canvas dummy and he returned promptly to hand.

On the first occasion he tries to disappear and you’ll hear me express my disapproval at him, and, as soon as he turns around I’m encouraging him towards me.

Keep your eyes on your dog and be quick to react and change your style and approach.

Be consistent and persevere with spaniel retrieving work

Most spaniels are natural retrievers but it is not their first love. Unlike Labradors that are bred solely for retrieving work, a spaniel has to be a good all rounder.

The spaniel’s prime interest and love is hunting and this is their key interest and desire.

If your spaniel plain refuses to retrieve then you have to cut down his hunting and even prevent him from doing it for a while.

Find something, anything that he loves to carry around. This could be a dummy, shoe, slipper, rolled up socks, whatever he likes to carry – there will be something important to him.

Whenever he has this encourage him to you. Never, ever shout at him or chastise him when he has anything in his mouth, even if it is your most precious possession.

When he comes to you always give him large amounts of praise – you can even use edible rewards or treats.

Throw the item for him and allow him to run in after it, don’t try to stop him, then encourage him back to you.

This is something that you can do in your hallway at home and this type of environment, where the dog can’t run off is ideal for this basic exercise.

It has to be fun for the dog and you should aim to make this as much of a game as possible.

Persevere. If you do this with your dog when he is a youngster you’ll reduce the risk of any retrieving problems as an adult.

One aspect of spaniel training is that of steadiness.

If your dog is going to be a working dog then you will need him to be steady, which means that he doesn’t chase things when he flushes them and also that he waits until you let him go for a retrieve.

Working with my young spaniel on his steadiness

I’ve started steadiness training with Nimrod recently. He’s just about eight months old and is coming along really well.

I’m very pleased with how much he enjoys retrieving and he’s keen to get to grips with the canvas dog training dummies that I use.

The effort that we put in when he was a baby has paid off, literally we let him carry anything around and praised him when he did.

Nowadays, everything is fair game to Nim, slippers and shoes disappear as do books, spectacles, he even likes getting coal out of the coal bucket and carrying that.

Up to now I’ve been letting Nimrod run into the dummy when it is thrown.

This simply means not stopping him and making him wait to ‘fetch’, and, by letting a dog run in like this we aim to develop keenness through effectively letting him chase the dummy.

Clearly that’s okay for a while but, in a working situation or competition, we want our spaniel to wait until he is told to get the retrieve.

I’ve done a video to help with this which is below and it should help you to understand what I’m trying to convey.

I put Nimrod on his lead and threw the dummy so that he could see where it went – this is important we don’t want the dog to fail so let him see it fall to the ground – and not too far away.

Then I made him sit or ‘hup‘ as I use.

Making sure that I am facing Nimrod so that the dummy is behind me I carefully take off his lead.

This allows me to grab him or stop him with my legs if he decides to run for the dummy.

If he shows impatience simply repeat the hup command, reinforced by the raised hand signal.

Once Nimrod had settled I immediately sent him for the retrieve using the command ‘fetch’.

Encouraging the retrieve

You’ll see from the video that he worked out the retrieve using his nose.

It’s important not to panic and to try and let the dog scent or wind the dummy so that he gets it himself. 

If he struggles or starts to look at you for help then encourage him and, if necessary walk slowly towards the dummy, so that, in effect you are helping him to find it.

You must ensure that he is successful. Give him lots of praise.

If he doesn’t show much interest, then, stop, do something that he is good at, practice another aspect of his training such as sitting at distance, then call it a day.

Try again another day.

If your spaniel is reluctant to pick the dummy up, then try something else as a retrieve.

Some spaniels can be a bit fussy over objects that they out in their mouths.

You could try a tennis ball such as these dog tennis balls, a fur lined dummy, a rolled up pair of thick socks.

Keep trying and find something that your dog will pick up readily.

If you are new to the world of spaniels then it can be confusing to learn that there is more than one ‘flavour’ of the Cocker spaniel ( as well as other breeds of spaniel ).

A common term that you might hear is that of a ‘working spaniel’ and there can be some significant differences between working spaniels and others – in terms of size and, more importantly, intelligence and ability.

So, what is meant by a working spaniel and specifically a working Cocker spaniel?

Types of Cocker spaniel

There are obvious differences when a working Cocker is compared to a show bred Cocker.

The working Cocker spaniel is generally smaller than the show dog, with shorter limbs, a broader head and, most obvious of all, shorter ears and hair.

The two types of Cockers originate from the same historical stock with the breed having been developed in England as hunting or shooting dogs to find and flush woodcock.

Hence the name Cocker spaniel .

The breed migrated to the United States where it underwent different breeding standards and became known as the American Cocker spaniel, a different dog to it’s English descendants.

Choose from working stock

If you are looking to work a Cocker spaniel then there is one golden rule that you must apply.

No matter how well bred or good looking a dog is, unless it is bred from working stock, then, the chances are that it will be a difficult dog to train and an indifferent worker when or if you are successful with it’s training.

Many Cockers have been bred for the show ring and, as such have been bred for looks, colour, type and other points of beauty rather than for working ability.

Over the course of generations of show breeding, the show Cocker has become a very different dog to the working Cocker which can be seen from the two pictures here.

The two types of dogs have taken different routes with their breeding.

The true working dogs will have pedigrees that demonstrate parents and ancestors from working stock with field trial and other working awards which will be regardless of looks or other beauty features.

It is a fact that a puppy with only two or three generations of show breeding in it’s blood will frequently display a lack of working ability or natural instinct.

This is true of all working dogs but particularly accurate with spaniel breeds.

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When we consider Cocker spaniels we see a show bred dog with long ears which impede it’s ability to work.

Deep eyelids which collect dirt and dust and cause infections and heavy, long coats which collect thorns and other rubbish when out in cover.

The working bred dogs, are smaller, more compact and powerful.

It is vitally important that, if you are looking for a Cocker spaniel as a working companion, that you seek out and find a dog that has been bred from working stock.

If you are looking for a pet then a show cocker would suit the brief ( but working dogs make good pets too).

Check pedigrees of dogs that you look at and look for working dogs, ask the breeder.

I’m not knocking show Cockers or show spaniels, but, honestly, if you want a working dog then get one from working ancestors.

You’ll have an easier time with training, the dog will almost train itself, it will have the drive and instinct that a working dog needs.

Why make it hard?

How big is a working Cocker spaniel?

Working Cocker spaniels tend to be short in stature.

Many working Cockers have broad heads and powerful shoulders, developed to help them to push through thick and dense cover in the pursuit and search of game.

My two Cockers are both working dogs, bred from long lines of working Cocker spaniels.

Boris is quite large for a Cocker, more the size of a small Springer spaniel. He has a broad head, powerful shoulders and is, for his size, a very powerful dog. 

Nimrod, on the other hand, is a lot finer, much smaller than Boris.

He is a working bred spaniel and some of his breeding mirrors that of Boris, however he is shorter in height and not as broad.

Generally working cockers weigh around 15Kgs.

Do working Cocker spaniels make good pets?

I would say so.

All of my working Cockers are also pets/members of the family/ good friends/great on roadtrips etc.

If you are looking at a working Cocker as a pet then you’ll be making a good choice as long as you acknowledge a few things.

Firstly – a working spaniel is a high energy dog. He needs to be exercised and exercised with purpose.

Most dogs like to ‘do something’ when they go for a walk, whether this is fetching a ball, going for a swim – their minds need exercising as well as their bodies.

A working cocker needs input and the best way to achieve this would be through some form of training.

You may not be interested in working a spaniel, but, for sure, your spaniel will be interested in working. So, when you go out be prepared.

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You’ll need to wear him out and do something that he enjoys.

Also be prepared for a muddy car, mud in the house, along with dog hair and possibly other mess.

He’ll have moments of daftness which some people call the ‘zoomies’, he’ll pick things up and walk around with them, most likely shoes and slippers.

We never know where our shoes are with Boris and Nimrod.

So. Before you commit to a working Cocker as a pet just think as to whether you can invest the time needed.

Oh, and they are great with children, in fact, having a working Cocker spaniel is like having an extra child.

They are good family dogs.

Do working Cockers calm down?

No. Next question please.

Seriously. If you want a calm dog then get something like a Chihuahua. Working Cockers have lots of energy and can keep up with the best.

Naturally, if you exercise your dog, keep him occupied and busy then he’ll get tired and goto sleep.

Also, as a Cocker, indeed any dog, gets older he’ll naturally slow down – just like people do.

But, as a youngster he’ll be active, full of energy and lively – just as he should be.

Think child/adult – kids are generally more active than their parents, with higher levels of energy and ‘staying power’ – it’s the same with most breeds of dogs.

Working dogs, and definitely working spaniels, are high energy.

Are male or female Cocker spaniels better?

It really comes down to preference and your own personal view.

I’ve owned male and female spaniels and the differences in personality are very few.

Many people think that male spaniels are more headstrong and maybe more difficult to train and own, but, from my own personal experiences I would disagree with that view.

Most modern spaniels are so soft that even the most novice of owner would have little difficulty in getting a dog to a good standard of training.

Key differences are probably more physical than personality based.

A female spaniel will come into season annually and you’ll need to be prepared to manage this process, keeping her away from male dogs until this passes.

Vets will advise you to have her ‘spayed’ but I’m strongly against this type of practice unless there are medical grounds for this procedure.

Female spaniels can experience ‘false pregnancies’ whereby they build nests and sometimes express milk, but this is rare.

Male Cockers can fight – Boris and Nimrod do have their disagreements at times which can get physical.

There is a risk that the dogs could injure each other and there’s a need to be careful if things do come to blows. 

If you only have one dog then you won’t need to worry too much about this.

Be careful with vets, they’ll try to talk you into castrating a male dog, there’s no need for this, unless there are medical grounds.

Males can be territorial but with careful training there’ll be no need to whip his testicles off.

Males mark a lot – they cock their legs wherever you take them,  but, unless you’re fussy about this sort of thing it shouldn’t be a problem – the dog isn’t bothered about this.

Energy wise both sexes are probably equally as capable and I’ve had bitches that could run the legs off male spaniels easily – there’s no real difference.

Trainability – both are equally capable of reaching high standards of training.

As pets – great. The female is probably a bit more adaptable around children but, like all dogs, don’t leave kids alone with a dog.

It really is down to your own preference. Both can be true characters.

Are Cocker spaniels easy to train?

The working bred Cocker spaniels are intelligent, biddable and keen to learn. Spaniels, in general, are bright dogs that love to get involved with new activities and learn.

I mentioned above the importance of getting a working bred cocker spaniel if you are looking for a good, keen working dog as it will be from proven stock that has been subject to training and doggy education.

If you opt for a Cocker from show bred stock then, chances are that the dogs parents have not experienced a great deal of training input. Genetics in the dog world can make all the difference.

I’m not saying that a show bred Cocker is untrainable but, if you want to increase your chances of success then you should go for the working bred dog.

Cockers love to hunt and chase their noses so if you can give your dog access to large areas where he can run free and expend some energy you’ll have a happier spaniel.

Retrieving games can be good fun and most spaniels will enjoy this. Use tennis balls or soft canvas dummies (like these that I found on Amazon) that won’t hurt the dog’s mouth.

If you throw these into long grass then the dog will have to hunt for them, using his nose to seek them out and find them – this is the sort of thing that spaniels love to do.

Cocker spaniels love to swim. If your spaniel is new to water then wait for a warm day. Take him out and let him run around warming up.

You’ll get more success introducing him to water on a hot day when he needs a refreshing dip. Don’t ever throw him in – you’ll frighten him and may even put him off water for good.

How do you groom a working Cocker spaniel?

It’s not difficult to groom a working Cocker spaniel and all you’ll really need is a good brush and a towel for most occasions.

You don’t need anything expensive, this is the type of brush that I use and it’s available for a really good price on Amazon.

You should always check your spaniel over after you’ve been out for a walk or out working with him. If he’s wet give him a wipe down with a towel.

Cockers seem to get cold when they stop running around so be aware of this.

Check his eyes, his ears, paws, face , tail and generally give him the once over.

Cockers and most other spaniels are hard going dogs that like to enter all kinds of cover from rushes through to thick brambles, all of which can cause damage and injury to your dog.

So, after every outing give him a check to make sure he has no injuries.

Cockers like being brushed and fussed over so I doubt that you’ll have any difficulties brushing him. Gently brush his ears through, his back and chest and brush through the feathering on his legs.

This ‘grooming’ shows your dog that you care for him and it should be enjoyable for both of you.

It also gives you the opportunity to check over your dog, checking for cuts, lumps, ticks, indeed anything out of the ordinary.

Bath time can be fun with Cockers. Good luck with the wrestling that will inevitably take place.

Make sure you have plenty of old towels available.

Can working Cocker spaniels be left alone?

Most dogs, including working Cockers, can be left alone for some part of the day.

Dogs, like people, vary in temperament, so, what may work for one dog may not be suitable for another.

My dogs are left alone, at random times, some days.

Currently, at home there is normally someone in so it’s rare that they are alone.

Plus, there are two of them so they don’t have to be on their own.

The key is to understand your dog. A dog that is well exercised, fed and looked after will be more amenable to being left than one that does not get out.

If your dog is tired after a walk and has been fed, then, he’ll go to sleep while you are away.

If you are planning to get a working Cocker and you’ll need to leave him alone then work on a routine that you can do daily. 

Take him out for a decent walk, give him a small meal when you get home, make sure that he has a comfortable, draught free place where he can go to bed and encourage him to use this for sleep.

Before you leave him, check around and make sure that there is nothing within reach that he shouldn’t have.

This could include things such as food, medicines, shoes, clothes, documents and other valuables.

Make sure that the environment is safe for him and always ensure that he has plenty of fresh clean water to drink.

Try not to leave him for too long. Dogs are pack creatures and enjoy being with their human pack, when you leave he can become concerned. 

Always make a fuss of him when you return, and, if he has made a mess or damaged something, then, that is your fault – not his – he’s just a dog and doesn’t understand.

Which dog food is best for Cocker spaniels?

There is a great number of dog foods available to choose from when deciding what to feed a Cocker spaniel.

My recommendation is to always use a food that contains a majority of meat based protein.

Many foods are predominantly cereal based and, despite what the manufacturers say, they are not the best type of food for any dog, least of all active, high energy creatures such as Cockers.

I feed my dogs a mix of raw tripe that I buy frozen from a local pet store, tinned dog food from the supermarket and Eukanuba which is a dried dog biscuit type food comprised of chicken and rice.

The Eukanuba version that I feed is for medium sized dogs and it suits my Cocker spaniels, they really enjoy it and are healthy on it.  

You can get Eukanuba medium from Amazon and can check the latest prices via this link.

I normally use one to two handfuls of the dry food mixed in with the meat – the dogs enjoy it and the meat provides a nich tasty treat.

Boris and Nimrod also get treats, in the form of Dentastix and other doggy delights – they’re all meaty based and make useful rewards in training as well.

When you get a puppy or new dog then you should always feed the same food as the breeder, for several weeks at least, and, if you want to change to a new food then you should introduce this gradually so that you don’t upset the dog’s tummy.

Do Cocker spaniels like to cuddle?

Yes. As much as they are rough and tumble, tough dogs, yes they like to cuddle.

Boris likes to sit on my knee when he is tired or lies on top of me when I am in bed.

Nimrod is a right old sleepy head, he doesn’t like to get up in the morning, normally he is curled up in bed. He also likes sitting curled up on the sofa and frequently watches television.

Right now they’re curled up fast asleep after having had a great day’s training.