Dogs may be man’s best friend but that doesn’t mean they can eat anything we do.
Hot dogs are a popular fast food enjoyed by many people and, as they contain some form of meat, many dog owners wonder if they are suitable for their pets to eat.
In general, it is best to avoid feeding your dog processed meat products like hot dogs, as these can contain additives and preservatives that are harmful to dogs. However, if you do choose to give your dog a hot dog on occasion, there are some things you should keep in mind.
The answer is yes, but there are a few things to keep in mind.
Like people, dogs can get sick from eating processed meats like hot dogs. So it’s important to only give your dog well-cooked hot dogs and only in moderation.
The key thing to remember is that not all hot dogs are the same and there are some that are so processed with additives that you should avoid giving them to your dog.
In fact you should probably avoid eating them yourself too.
If you have a source of fresh meat such as a local butcher then their hot dogs and sausages will be far better than the processed canned or jarred hot dogs that you see at the supermarket.
If you are intent on giving hot dogs to your dog then you really need to consider the ingredients and, the reality is, that any hot dogs for human consumption, that are wrapped in plastic or sold in cans or jars, will contain high levels of salt and other additives that, put simply, are not good for dogs.
Remember that any processed foods, such as hot dogs, will contain a range of additives and preservatives that, while not overly dangerous for humans, may cause problems for your dog.
If you feed too many processed hot dogs to your dog, then he may become unwell.
Why not make your own hot dogs?
You want to give your dog only the best and that means avoiding processed hot dogs.
You can buy meat from butchers or local farmers who produce their own meat products and, with just a little effort, you can make your own healthy hot dogs.
How many hot dogs can dogs eat?
You really need to keep an eye on how much you give your dog and hot dogs are no exception.
Feeding your dog a couple of times a week is fine, but if this becomes a regular treat then it’s advisable to cut back and consider giving him other treats that don’t contain harmful ingredients.
If you’re having a barbecue or other meat based feast then why not ditch the hot dogs altogether and get some steak or a similar natural product, such as some good quality sausages?
Your dog will fare much better from something that is more natural than hot dogs and you’ll probably enjoy it more too.
Something like this Woof Club Dog Treat Box would be much more appealing to your dog.
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FAQs
Can dogs eat hot dogs?
Yes, dogs can eat hot dogs, but it’s not recommended as a regular part of their diet due to high levels of sodium, preservatives, and potential ingredients like onion and garlic that can be harmful to dogs.
What could happen if a dog eats a hot dog?
Consuming hot dogs occasionally might not cause immediate harm, but regular consumption can lead to obesity, digestive issues, and potentially serious conditions like pancreatitis due to their high fat and sodium content.
Can I give my dog a hot dog as a treat?
While it’s technically safe to give a dog a small piece of hot dog as a treat occasionally, it’s healthier to opt for dog-specific treats. These are formulated to provide nutritional benefits and are less likely to contain harmful ingredients.
Are certain types of hot dogs safer for dogs to eat?
Low-sodium, all-natural hot dogs with no harmful ingredients (like onion, garlic, or artificial preservatives) are safer but should still be given in moderation. However, they still shouldn’t replace a balanced, species-appropriate diet.
Can I feed my dog a hot dog if it’s the only food I have?
In an emergency situation, a dog could eat a hot dog. However, it’s essential to return to a balanced diet as soon as possible. Chronic consumption of hot dogs can lead to health issues due to their high sodium and fat content, and potential harmful ingredients.
Final Words
Although you can give hot dogs to dogs, they are not the best choice.
Pineapple contains a moderate quantity of vitamin C which can help boost your dog’s immune system.
Vitamin C also helps to prevent skin infections in dogs so feeding them pineapple may reduce the risk of skin problems developing.
Pineapple is a wonderful source of manganese, vitamin B1, vitamin B6 and dietary fibre.
Manganese helps with normal bone formation while also breaking down protein, fat and carbohydrates into usable energy for your dog.
Vitamin B1 helps to convert food into energy while vitamins B6 are essential for the proper development of red blood cells.
Dietary fibre is important in removing waste from your dog’s system and a more efficient digestive system can help promote a more active lifestyle.
Pineapple also contains phosphorus, copper, magnesium and potassium while being low in saturated fat and sodium which is important for your dog’s heart health.
Are there any side effects to feeding him pineapple?
There are some side effects associated with giving your dog pineapple and they should be taken into account.
Pineapple contains lots of sugar which can be problematic for dogs who are not ‘designed’ to deal with high levels of sugar.
For this reason it is important that you only feed pineapple in small quantities and that this is not done often.
For the same reason you should only feed natural, raw pineapple and avoid any canned versions of the product.
Canned pineapple often contains added or concentrated amounts of sugar and should not be given to dogs.
Pineapple – tasty for humans but is it safe for dogs to eat?
How can I safely feed my dog pineapple?
You should be able to feed your dog a little raw pineapple without any concerns however you should not make it a regular event.
If you want to give your dog a treat of some pineapple then the best way to do this is by peeling the skin from the fruit and grating a small quantity of fresh, raw pineapple.
You can then mix this in with his regular food which will allow the pineapple to be digested more easily by your dog.
Grating the fruit helps to make it more palatable to your dog and also makes it easier to mix into his dog food.
You should look to only give one or two tablespoons of this mixture to your dog each time you feed it to him.
For a small dog this may only be four or five teaspoons but for a medium sized dog you could aim for around one and a half tablespoons while larger dogs should have no more than two tablespoons of the mixture.
Too much fruit, in general, can lead to weight gain in dogs which will have a negative impact on his health and energy levels.
Pineapple is high in sugar so if you are giving your dog too much pineapple then the weight gain may be even more pronounced.
Too much sugar can also lead to tooth decay so it is important to ensure that any food given to your dog has minimal risk of causing dental problems.
Final Words
Although in moderation pineapple is safe for dogs there are some side effects and risks associated with feeding your dog too much, so it should not be fed regularly.
It is important to only feed you dog ‘fresh’ pineapple without any added sugar or syrup which may be found in canned pineapple.
You should also avoid giving your dog any core or skin portions of the fruit as this is can cause problems if consumed by your dog.
As with all foods you should ensure that you only give your dog pineapple occasionally and not on a regular basis.
It goes without saying that you should always seek the professional advice of your vet before changing your dog’s diet or if you have any concerns about his health.
There are lots of articles and other items on easyspanieltraining.com that cover training, feeding, care and welfare but one area that I’ve not really talked about is the significant question that is – Should your dog sleep on your bed?
Yes, why not? Providing your dog understands the basic household dynamics and rules then, in my view, there is no reason to not allow your dog to sleep on your bed. Just make sure that he doesn’t take up all of the room and blankets.
Should you let your dog sleep in your bed?
If you’d asked me this question a few decades ago when I began training spaniels then I would have told you that your dog should have his own kennel, outside, where he lives and sleeps.
My main reason for this train of thought was that if the dog slept with me then that would affect his training and obedience.
All of my spaniels now sleep with the human pack across a range of beds and bedrooms within the household and it has had absolutely no impact on the behaviour of my dogs.
The big positive has been from my own personal understanding of dogs in that I have learned yet even more about this amazing species of animal through spending yet more time with them.
Providing that you have the basics in place in terms of training and behaviour, then you should have little if any problem when allowing your dog to sleep with you.
All the dog needs to understand is that it is your bed and, if you decide to kick him out because he is taking up too much room, then so be it.
Cocker spaniels are one of the most popular dog breeds in the world and are kept as pets, working gundogs, service dogs and used for a wide range of other activities.
This popularity makes them one of the most misunderstood of breeds, particularly among novice owners and those who are unfamiliar with the overall world of dogs.
Cocker spaniels are not aggressive dogs although, like all breeds of dogs, they can be aggressive at times. This is normally as a result of mistreatment, abuse or other external influences that affect the dog’s behaviour. A properly raised and treated Cocker is unlikely to be an aggressive dog.
What causes aggression in Cocker spaniels?
Cocker spaniels can become aggressive for a number of reasons.
Some common causes of aggression include:
Fear and anxiety at being placed in unfamiliar situations
Stress and tension caused by lack of exercise and mental stimulation
Mistreatment, abuse or over-discipline by the owner or other family members
Mistreatment or aggression from an earlier age that has not been properly dealt with
Poor breeding practices
Although Cocker spaniels are not inherently aggressive dogs, they may have predispositions to certain behaviours which might cause aggression if allowed to continue.
This increases their chance of becoming fearful or anxious in certain situations and, if this develops further, then the dog could seem to be aggressive in certain situations manifesting in barking, growling and possibly biting.
This type of behaviour is often not aggression but behaviour that is borne out of the dog’s fear for the situation.
Poorly socialised dogs can often express fear and poor confidence levels through behaviour which appears to be aggressive.
Socialise your Cocker spaniel
When you have a dog, such as a Cocker spaniel, it is important to provide them with as many opportunities to develop their social skills as possible.
Just as with a human child, a puppy that experiences life, different places, people and sights, sounds and smells, will develop into a more fully rounded and measured adult – with appropriate skills and behaviours to match.
As soon as your puppy is old enough to get out and about you should help him/her to explore the world meeting people, children, other dogs and animals and generally finding out about himself and the world around him.
Aim to prevent future problems with behaviour from occurring by helping your spaniel to understand the wider world.
If you have an older Cocker, maybe a rescue dog or a pet from a relative or other source then the many of the strategies that are applied with puppies can also be used to help him.
You’ll need to be more watchful, particularly if you don’t know the background of the dog and if your dog shows signs of nervousness or aggression in certain situations then you should take a step back, and think the scenario through.
Often your vet can be a good source of advice and help for a nervous dog.
Training
Bored spaniels can become possessive and aggressive simply because they have no other way of expending their energy.
Just like a child cooped up all day in front of a games console, an unexercised, untrained spaniel will become frustrated and this could result in aggressive type behaviour.
Thankfully it’s not difficult and most spaniels will happily chase a ball all day ( if that’s all you can manage).
You can make training a fun activity for you and the dog and the great thing about Cockers is that they love the interaction and the experience.
There are lots of training resources around from books and videos to clubs and societies, all of which will help you to become a decent spaniel ( and dog ) trainer.
A tired Cocker is unlikely to have the energy to be aggressive.
If you like reading then these are some of my favourite spaniel training books.
Specialist trainers or behaviourists may be able to help, particularly if your dog is showing signs of aggression towards people or other dogs.
As always, you should consider consulting with a veterinary surgeon to ensure that there are no underlying health issues associated with aggression which might require treatment.
Always get a Cocker spaniel from a reputable breeder
This applies to any dog and not just Cocker spaniels.
Over the last two to three years a plethora of ‘dog breeders’ have popped up, hoping to benefit from the raised prices of pedigree puppies and many have little, if any concern, for the quality of the dogs, the conditions that they are raised in or their futures.
Avoid these so called breeders.
Always do your homework when buying a spaniel puppy ( or other dog ). Speak to other owners, your vet and get as much advice as possible before venturing forth and acquiring a dog.
Poor breeding and early socialisation can result in wide ranging health and behavioural problems in dogs some of which don’t manifest until the dog is older – and this can include aggressive type behaviours.
An injured or ill Cocker might growl or even bite if approached.
Don’t confuse this with aggression as often the dog will have sent you other signals that he is in pain and doesn’t want you to go near him..
Unlike humans, who normally understand when someone is trying to help, a dog doesn’t have that mental capacity and will often bite out of fear of being hurt or exposed to more discomfort if he is in pain.
If you have any doubts or concerns about your spaniel’s health, or if he is unwell or injured, then you should get the professional advise and support that only your vet is qualified to offer.
Puppies
Puppies bite and nip and it’s important to not confuse this with aggressive behaviour.
Dogs do not have hands and they explore their world with their mouths and for puppies this means nipping and chewing.
Puppies teeth are needle sharp and a nip from a Cocker puppy can be painful and can draw blood – children are often the victims as they are the ones that play the most with the puppy.
When your puppy nips, tell him in a firm voice ‘No’ so that he begins to understand that biting human flesh is not allowed – and then give him a toy to play with – something that he can chew and throw around to his heart’s content.
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Final Words
Cocker spaniels are not aggressive dogs but it is important to remember that like children, they need boundaries and they respond well to training.
Always be kind to your spaniel and help him to become a valued member if society by spending time with him and helping him to understand the world around him.
Remember that he is just a dog – he doesn’t see the world like a human and there are strange things that can frighten and confuse him.
If you feel that your dog might be aggressive then you should always get professional advice – your vet is always the best place to start the dialogue and the process of helping your dog to address the problem.
Remember that Cockers beautiful dogs and really can become vital members of your family if you treat them right.
Cats and dogs or dogs and cats, however you put it there has always been a suspicion that the two species are arch enemies that do not get along with each other.
If you are a cat owner thinking of getting a Cocker spaniel, or a Cocker spaniel owner thinking of getting a cat then you will probably be wondering if Cockers and cats like each other.
Cocker spaniels are generally tolerant towards cats and the two species can become great friends and companions over time. There are a few things you can do to help the relationship along and make sure your Cocker spaniel and cat get along well.
How do you introduce a dog and cat?
The first thing to do is to introduce the animals slowly and carefully.
Put the cat in a room by itself with plenty of food, water, and places to hide, and then let the dog into the room.
Let them get to know each other gradually, and do not force them to interact if they are not ready.
When they are both comfortable with each other, you can start to let them out into the same room together.
It is important that you supervise interactions between your Cocker spaniel and cat at all times.
If the dog gets too rough or starts to chase the cat, you will need to intervene and stop the behaviour.
It is also important that you provide plenty of toys and playtime for both the dog and the cat, so they have something else to focus on other than each other.
Can Cocker spaniels be left alone with cats?
This will depend upon the relationship that the two animals have.
If the two have known each other for a long time, or they have been together since they were youngsters, then this would probably be okay.
Always make sure, however, that your cat has a place that it can escape to that cannot be accessed by the dog – just in case things get out of hand while you are not around.
A good option would be to provide an area that is out of reach of the dog, such as a tower or other feature that the cat can climb onto safely.
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Cocker spaniels and cats as housemates
Once you have introduced the two animals and they are living together as companions, it should be easy to look after them as housemates.
You can avoid problems by ensuring that there is plenty of territory and resources for both the dog and the cat.
This means that they will not feel as though they are in competition with each other for limited resources.
Make sure that your spaniel gets plenty of outdoor exercise so that he doesn’t become tempted to burn up his energy by chasing the cat around the house.
You may also find that when you take your Cocker out for a walk then you cat may come along too.
This was a common occurrence with my last cat who would join the pack for a daily walk.
He would walk alongside the spaniels until we reached the edge of ‘his cat territory’ where he would stop and wait for us to return, often hiding in bushes and jumping out ‘attacking’ the dogs when we passed his hiding place.
Final Words
So, Cocker spaniels and cats can be great friends.
Take your time when introducing them and be prepared for some excitement from the dog and some hissing and paw waving from the cat.
Make sure that the cat has somewhere safe to go, out of reach of the dog and allow the two animals to become familiar with each other.
In due course, you’ll find that they will play and enjoy each other’s company.
When winter arrives it is common for many places to see snow, with some areas getting more of it than others.
Your dog will need to get out for exercise regardless of the weather conditions which leads us to ask ‘do dogs like snow’?
Most dogs are like children and love it when the snow comes down. For young, active dogs, snow is great fun and for puppies it can be an interesting and fun activity to explore the cold, white stuff that is on the ground.
Why snow is fun for dogs
Snow provides an interesting challenge for your dog to explore. Being active, they’ll enjoy the unpredictability of snow and it can be the perfect playtime environment.
With all this white stuff on the ground there are a lot of new smells to take in for your dog, which is another reason why they’ll be excited to go outside in the snow.
Like children, dogs find snow to be fun and exciting and it can be a great way for you to exercise your dog if they are playful and energetic.
How do I get my dog out in the snow?
For most dogs this won’t be a problem as, like children they simply cannot wait to get out to play when the snow is on the ground.
You can take your dog out for a walk in the snow, simply put your coat on and get outside with him and he’ll enjoy the experience.
Be careful that it’s not horrendous weather though, if it is really cold or wild then it’s best to put your coat away and sit in front of the fire until things improve.
Although your dog probably won’t be too bothered by the weather you’ll be as miserable as sin – so wait until it improves.
Yes, dogs can get cold in the snow and if they are not looked after properly or are exposed to extreme wet and cold conditions, then they can develop hyperthermia, frostbite and other problems.
How can I make sure my dog doesn’t get cold?
Just as your feet end up wet from the snow, your dog’s coat will get wet too.
This is not too much of a problem for him while he is running free and keeping warm through activity but, as soon as you put his lead on and things slow down, or you get into the car to go home, then he could start to get cold.
It’s always a good idea to towel your dog down at the end of his walk to remove excess moisture and put his dog coat on to help him to keep warm.
There are lots of different dog coats available but the ones that I like the best are the Ruff and Tumble Dog Drying Coats that absorb moisture and keep your dog warm and dry.
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How long can I walk my dog for in the snow?
This can vary depending on the breed and age of your dog so it’s best to err on the side of caution. If you have a puppy then they’ll probably be fine for 10-15 minutes playing whereas an older dog will be happy to walk for longer.
You should always be aware of the weather and the age and fitness levels of your pet.
Fit, active dogs will enjoy walking in the snow and for most, 30 minutes to an hour will be sufficient whereas an older dog will probably be happy with a shorter walk.
Remember also that when out walking in the snow, the weather conditions can change and you should take these into account when planning your walk with your dog.
What are some fun things I can do with my dog in the snow?
You don’t have to play in the snow with your dog but I always enjoy getting out for a walk whatever the weather, so we’ll often go to a quiet spot and throw some sticks around and chase after them and play games.
If you have lots of snow or some deep drifts then digging holes and tunnels is great fun and you can join in with your dog. You can even build a snow cave or den to hide in.
Final Words
There’s so much fun to be had walking your dog in the snow and it can be a great way of keeping fit as well as providing some social exercise.
Make sure that you keep an eye on your dog for signs of tiredness or coldness and remember that wet dogs are more susceptible to ill-health from the cold so don’t let them get too wet.
Enjoy the snow and have fun with your dog, but be careful of the potential problems that cold weather can present for your pet’s health.
If you are thinking of getting a gundog or a good pet that will take well to training, then there are several choices of breeds that you can consider.
Among these are the spaniel breeds, such as the English Cocker, the English Springer spaniel and the less well known minor breed spaniels such as Clumber and others.
But why would you even consider a spaniel when other breeds such as Labradors are more common and, probably, much easier to train?
There is little doubt, among those that work dogs in shooting environments, that spaniels are the most capable and complete all rounders of the gundog world. Unlike the retrievers who just sit and wait to do their jobs, a working spaniel possesses a massive skill set and range of abilities that enable him to perform in any shooting environment.
What will a trained working spaniel do that other breeds cannot?
A good, well bred and trained working spaniel will undertake every activity that you need him to do on a shoot day or during a competition.
With careful and considered training your spaniel will be a total and complete all rounder able to take on all of the jobs that the other gundog breeds perform while adding his own abilities and intelligence to the mix.
He will stay within gunshot range while using the wind to his best advantage to help him to work the cover correctly.
Bushes, brambes, fallen trees, bracken and all other forms of cover will be explored and subject to the scrutiny of his nose and his ability and power will enable him to get into all manner of vegetation to find rabbits, pheasants and other wild animals.
Flushing game
While your spaniel is covering his ground he will come across game. He will not chase it but will flush it and then remain still while the game is either shot or ignored.
This is known as ‘dropping to flush’ and is a key skill that will require lots of work.
Dropping to flush and not chasing keeps your spaniel safe and significantly reduces the risk of being shot.
Many guns get carried away during shoots and, if they do not shoot regularly then they can potentially unsafe – particularly where dogs and their handlers are concerned and both have been shot in the past by over zealous individuals.
So. dropping to the flush is an important spaniel skill.
Retrieving or ignoring the game
When game has been shot you’ll need your spaniel to retrieve it, quickly and safely.
Often shot game is instantly killed by the shotgun but there are instances where game is injured and may run away – known as a ‘runner’.
In these cases your spaniel will get to the area where the game fell ( the fall ) and using the power of his nose, will track the game down and then retrieve the game to hand.
It may be that you miss the game and that it escapes uninjured, and this happens more often than not.
In this case your spaniel will ignore the game when told and carry on hunting the ground, looking for the next opportunity.
Dropping to shot
In the same way that your spaniel drops to the flush, he will also drop to shot when he hears it.
This may occur when game is flushed by another dog or by yourself or someone else nearby.
Your spaniel will stop and either stand or sit down and, again this serves a very useful purpose.
Firstly it helps to stop your dog from ‘running in’ going after the game without being told to which could be dangerous as more shooting could occur, or, it could interfere with another dog’s retrieve which may have been sent.
Marking where game has fallen
Your spaniel will be able to ‘mark’ or see and remember where shot game has fallen.
This is an important skill that is common among all working gundogs although some breeds ( such as Labradors ) can mark the fall over a larger distance than other breeds.
Your spaniel will then go and ‘fetch’ the game from the area and, if he has marked it well, will require little, if any help from you to do so.
You’ll be able to stop him on the whistle, get him to look at you and then direct him to the left, right, back or towards you.
This is a great skill and vital when you are trying to help him to find game that he has not marked or seen and often all you need to do is to help him to get his nose into the wind and he’ll finish the job off nicely himself.
Working with the wind
Your spaniel will become an expert at using the wind to his advantage so that he gets the maximum amount of scent up his nose.
Whether the breeze is coming straight towards you blowing in your faces or is hitting you in the back, or even coming from the left or right – your working spaniel will adapt his hunting to suit the wind conditions.
This will be the case when he is hunting and often when he retrieves and watching a spaniel turn into the wind when he scents his retrieve is often a sight to behold.
This use of the wind will be an educational process for you as you begin to understand and appreciate the power of your spaniel’s sense of smell.
Working as a team
Working spaniels are great a teamwork and an experienced team of spaniels will cover more ground than any number of humans or retrievers.
Whether you get more spaniels or your dog joins the others on a shoot day – a working spaniel is simply at the top of the list when to comes to teamwork.
Only Border Collies – which perform very different work are comparable.
I’ve frequently worked a small team of working English Springers and, once they became famiiar with each other, they were a pleasure to be out with.
The thought of having more than one spaniel ‘running around ahead of you’ may be formidable to many handlers but, trust me, with experience comes confidence and your ability as a handler will grow.
Once you have one working spaniel, you’ll soon be on the road to another.
Having a team of working spaniels is simply the best – if you like spaniels.
Final Words
I’ve been around working spaniels for over 30 years and I’m still learning about these great dogs.
If you are looking for a dog that makes a great all rounder, that is capable of hunting, flushing and retrieving from all manner of situations, including water – then I recommend a working spaniel.
Don’t forget too that working spaniels are also great family members and are able to switch easily between their working roles and that of pet and faithful companion and, the advantage of this is that you’ll learn so much more about him if you can treat him this way.
Cocker spaniels can be in season at any time, but the average age is between 8 months and a year. After her first season she will have further ones at, on average, every six months. If your dog reaches two years of age without going into season, you should talk to your veterinarian about it. She may have gone through a silent period where no outward symptoms or indicators exist.
If you have a female Cocker spaniel then it is important to understand and recognise the symptoms and times when she comes into season ( heat ) so that you can look after her properly.
If you wish to breed from your bitch or remove the risk of unwanted attention from male dogs, then you’ll need to identify when she is most receptive to breeding.
When does a Cocker spaniel come into season?
When a spaniel is about to come into heat, it will have milky discharge from the vulva for several days.
She may lose interest in food and become restless.
Her vulva becomes swollen and her vagina discharges a bloody or pinkish fluid.
These signs usually begin at 6 months of age , but this should only be taken as an average guideline as dogs differ and she could come into season at a later age.
How do I know if my Cocker spaniel is in season?
Here are some signs that your Cocker Spaniel might be in season:
Swollen Vulva Swelling: The vulva will become noticeably swollen. Discharge: You might observe a bloody discharge from the vulva. The discharge may start off quite bloody and then change to a straw-coloured liquid as the heat progresses.
Behavioural Changes Affectionate Behaviour: She may become more affectionate or clingy towards you. Agitation: She might seem restless, anxious, or more alert than usual. Flirtatious Behaviour: She may exhibit flirtatious behaviour towards male dogs, such as raising her rump and moving her tail to the side. Aggression: Alternatively, she might become more aggressive or snappy, especially towards other female dogs.
Frequent Urination She may urinate more frequently than usual. This is a way of spreading her scent to signal to male dogs that she is in season.
Licking Excessive licking of the genital area is common as she tries to clean herself.
Appetite Changes She may experience changes in appetite, either eating more or less than usual.
Nesting Behaviour Some dogs will exhibit nesting behaviours, such as gathering toys or bedding and being protective over them.
Attraction of Male Dogs Male dogs may become more interested in her, and you might notice them hanging around your property.
How long does a Cocker spaniel’s season last?
A Cocker Spaniel’s season, or heat cycle, typically lasts about three weeks or up to a month, but this can vary slightly depending on the individual dog.
The heat cycle is divided into different stages, each with its own distinct behaviours and physical changes.
Understanding the reproductive cycle of Cocker spaniels
Before we dive into the timing of when Cocker Spaniels come into season, it’s important to understand their reproductive cycle.
A female Cocker Spaniel‘s reproductive cycle can be divided into four stages:
Proestrus
Estrus
Diestrus
Anestrus
Let’s take a closer look at each stage:
Proestrus—Start of heat. Lasts 7 to 10 days. Vulva swells and blood flows. Females attract males but will not allow mounting.
Estrus—Mating period. Lasts 5 to 10 days. Blood flow lessens and then stops. Females attract and accept males. Ovulation occurs during this time, usually 2 to 3 days after mating.
Diestrus. The period 10 to 140 days after heat, when the dog is either pregnant or in a resting phase.
Anestrus. The resting period between diestrus and the next heat cycle.
Male dogs will be attracted to her during this time, but the female Cocker Spaniel is not yet ready to mate.
Estrus:
This stage lasts for about 7-10 days and is when the female Cocker Spaniel is fertile and ready to mate.
The discharge during this stage changes from bloody to straw-coloured and becomes more viscous.
Diestrus:
This stage lasts for about 60 days and is the period when the female Cocker Spaniel is pregnant or not pregnant.
If she is not pregnant, she will go into heat again after this stage.
Anestrus:
This stage lasts for about 4-5 months and is the period of sexual inactivity.
Signs to watch out for with your female Cocker spaniel
Many bitches display some behavioural changes before they come into season.
You’ll often find that she may become clingy and eat more or less. She may also want to sleep more frequently or could even become more active.
On many occasions bitches will slip with their housetraining and will ‘mark’ areas in the home.
If you do witness any changes then it could be a sign that she is due to come into season.
Physical signs
As her season approaches the dog’s vulva will become swollen. This may or may not be easy to see.
Her teats could also become swollen.
This is normally when she will begin to bleed and you should try to spot this as accurately as you are able.
This is important if you are planning puppies – it is also vital when keeping her away from male dogs.
She will bleed for about ten days, but sometimes this can be a shorter or longer period of time.
Towards the end of the bleeding, the discharge will become a clear fluid.
If you notice anything other than blood colour or clear then you should talk to your vet in case your dog has an infection.
COCKER SPANIEL SEASON ADVICE
here’s a list of advice and information related to when a Cocker Spaniel might come into season:
Understanding the Timing
First Season: Cocker Spaniels typically have their first season between 6-12 months of age.
Frequency: They usually come into season every six months, but some dogs can have a cycle that’s slightly shorter or longer.
Recognising the Signs
Physical Changes: Look for a swollen vulva and a bloody or straw-coloured discharge.
Behavioural Changes: Monitor for alterations in behaviour, such as clinginess, restlessness, or aggression.
Increased Attention from Males: Male dogs may show a heightened interest in your Cocker Spaniel.
Managing the Season
Isolation from Male Dogs: Ensure she is kept away from male dogs to prevent unwanted pregnancies.
Hygiene: Consider using doggy diapers to manage discharge and maintain cleanliness.
Comfort: Provide extra comfort and attention as she may be feeling anxious or unsettled.
Health and Safety
Secure Environment: Make sure your garden or yard is secure to prevent escapes or unwanted visits from male dogs.
Regular Exercise: Continue to provide regular exercise but ensure she is on a lead and under control at all times.
Veterinary Advice: Consult your vet if you notice any unusual behaviours or physical changes, or if you have concerns about her health during her season.
Breeding Considerations
Breeding Age: If you plan to breed, consult with a vet regarding the appropriate age and health considerations.
Health Checks: Ensure both breeding partners have been health checked and are free from hereditary conditions.
Puppy Planning: Be prepared for the possibility of puppies and ensure you have the resources and time to care for them.
Spaying
Consider Spaying: If you do not intend to breed from your Cocker Spaniel, consider having her spayed to prevent seasons and associated behaviours.
Post-Spaying Care: Understand and be prepared for post-spaying care and management. Record Keeping
Track Her Cycle: Keep a record of your Cocker Spaniel’s heat cycles to predict and prepare for future seasons.
Additional Support
Join a Community: Consider joining forums or social media groups related to Cocker Spaniels for additional support and advice.
Professional Advice: Seek advice from professional breeders or a canine reproductive specialist for detailed insights.
Remember that managing a dog in season requires patience and understanding. Always prioritise her comfort and safety, and consult with veterinary professionals to ensure her health and well-being throughout her cycle.
When is she ready for mating?
When the bleeding ends, this is the time that your bitch is ready for mating.
If you are planning a litter then the next ten days are when your dog should be mated.
If a litter is not intended then, for the next ten days, and ideally longer, you will need to keep your bitch under supervision – away from male dogs, of all breeds – this includes kennel mates, brothers, father, uncles etc.
Male dogs ( and most bitches ) are not fussy so be very careful if you want to avoid accidental puppies.
Do not leave her unsupervised anywhere, including gardens or yards – dogs can be really persistent and ingenious at gaining access to bitches that are in season.
Recommended reading for breeders
If you’re new to dog breeding or want to improve your knowledge then these books are an excellent source of information and reference.
How to care for your Cocker spaniel during her season
When your Cocker Spaniel is in season, it’s important to take extra care of her to ensure her health and well-being.
Here are some tips to keep in mind:
Keep your dog on a lead when outside
Keep your dog away from other male dogs to prevent unwanted mating.
Do not bathe your dog during her season, as this can disrupt the natural balance of her hormones and increase the risk of infection.
Use sanitary pads or special doggie diapers to prevent blood from staining your furniture or carpets.
Keep your dog’s environment clean to prevent infection, and wipe her genital area with a damp cloth daily.
Monitor your dog’s behaviour closely, as she may be more prone to anxiety or restlessness during this time.
What can I do if my bitch is accidentally mated?
You should contact your vet immediately as they can administer a drug that acts like a ‘morning after pill.
This happened with one of my Springer spaniel bitches many years ago but the injection did not work as we were late in getting her to the vet.
Thankfully the dog was also a Springer spaniel who lived next door.
Prevention is always better than cure, but accidents do happen and both dogs and bitches can be devious and overly creative at gaining access to each other in these circumstances.
How often does a Cocker spaniel go into heat?
It is not unusual for a spaniel to go into heat twice in one year.
However, if this happens then you should be aware that there could be an underlying health issue. Seek advice from your vet.
On the whole the majority of bitches will have just one season per year, however, it is possible to have two seasons in the same year.
Try to avoid bathing her when she is in season
What is a silent season?
A silent season is where the bitch does not have a period of oestrus or heat.
Many females that are used for breeding will have a silent season between one and three years of age.
It is possible to mate a bitch during these silent seasons but you should talk to your vet beforehand as it would be advisable to check that she is in good health and that her uterus is free of infection.
Frequently asked questions
What are the signs that indicate my Cocker Spaniel is coming into season?
Some signs include a change in behaviour, increased urination, a swollen vulva, and some minor bleeding. It’s vital to observe your pet regularly so you can quickly notice these changes.
How often does a Cocker Spaniel go into heat, and at what age does it start?
Cocker Spaniels generally go into heat twice a year, roughly every six months. The first heat typically occurs between 6 to 9 months of age, but it can sometimes happen as late as 14 months.
What steps should I take when my Cocker Spaniel is in season?
Maintain regular exercise but avoid public places to prevent unwanted attention from male dogs. Ensure she has a comfortable space at home, keep her clean, and monitor her health. Consult your vet if you notice any unusual signs.
How can I manage the minor bleeding during my Cocker Spaniel’s heat cycle?
Using dog-specific pads can help manage bleeding. Regular cleaning of her bedding and living spaces will also help to maintain hygiene and comfort during this period.
How long does a Cocker Spaniel’s season last?
A Cocker Spaniel’s season can last for about 21-24 days, although this can also vary.
Can I bathe my Cocker Spaniel during her season?
It’s recommended to avoid bathing your Cocker Spaniel during her season, as this can disrupt the natural balance of her hormones and increase the risk of infection.
Final Words
I hope that you now have a better understanding of what is happening with your female Cocker spaniel when she comes into season.
It is important to keep her away if there are any male dogs in the vicinity, even if they are kennel mates or brothers. Dogs aren’t fussy.
Ten days after the bleeding has stopped this should be the time for mating.
As with all things concerning your dog’s health and wellbeing, you should always speak to and follow the advice of your vet who will understand your pet and is qualified to provide professional opinions and any relevant or required treatment.
Having a dog that walks nicely on and off the lead, to heel, is something that most dog owners would like, but, judging by the way many dogs behave on the lead this is more problematic than it should be.
Spaniels are one of the worst breeds for pulling on the lead as they simply live to hunt freely and cannot wait to get away and chase their noses.
If your spaniel pulls on the lead then resist the temptation to lose your temper. With some common sense and by following some simple and basic tips, you can easily and quickly train your spaniel to walk to heel both on and off the lead.
What should heel work look like for a Cocker spaniel?
It’s important to remember that Cockers ( as all spaniels ) are hunting dogs that are bred and intended to cover ground, using scent, to find game that can then be shot.
The whole instinct of working Cocker spaniels is to cover ground and find scent and game – walking to heel is neither important nor necessary in the mind of spaniels.
If you become pedantic about heel work with a spaniel then there is a very strong likelihood that you will affect his ability and willingness to hunt freely.
For me, a spaniel that walks off the lead and remains within 3 to 4 feet from me, is acceptable, and a dog that doesn’t pull to excess while on the lead is perfectly suitable.
If you desire or need a dog that will curl around your legs or press close to you while walking at heel, then a spaniel is not the dog for you – you should consider a Labrador or other breed that can function happily as a no slip retriever.
When should you train a Cocker spaniel to walk at heel?
The clue to the answer to this question partly lies in the previous paragraphs.
Heel work with spaniels should always be one of the last areas of training.
If you intend to work your Cocker either for shooting or competitions such as test, trials or even scurries, or agility or any activity where he will be expected to get away from ‘under your feet’, then heel work is bottom of the list for training.
You need your spaniel to be confident and covering his ground comprehensively, understanding his nose and trusting his sense of smell and you can hinder this development by over zealous heel work.
Just aim for your spaniel to walk comfortably on the lead and leave heel work alone until he is a competent hunter.
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How to teach heel work to a Cocker spaniel
There are many ‘ideas’ around training spaniels to walk nicely on the lead but often the best methods are also the easiest to work with and get the quickest results.
Decide which side of your body your spaniel will walk on – for most people this is the left side.
Find a quiet place where there are no distractions – such as people, kids, other dogs etc.
Sit your spaniel down on the side that he is to walk using the ‘hup’ or ‘sit’ command ( whichever he is familiar with).
Tap your thigh and say ‘heel’ and walk, with intent, forwards for 3 to 4 steps.
After the 4th step turn sharply left, 90 degrees, across your dog’s path.
You’ll find that the act of crossing his path makes him turn left with you and, as you turn, he will be walking to heel ( even though he doesn’t know it).
Walk a few more paces and then turn left again ( repeat the heel command) and you will find that he soon catches on and will realise the association of the word ‘heel’ with staying close.
As he progresses, turn right, away from the dog, so that you are pulling him, then turn back towards him so that the lead slackens.
Keep mixing up the turns, try going in a figure of eight and keep your spaniel guessing. This will help to keep him close when on the lead.
As your dog becomes familiar with ‘heel’ on the lead, you can progress to removing the lead and doing the same exercises while he is walking freely.
As with all training exercises you should progress slowly and not overdo things.
Keep the lead sessions short and always allow your spaniel some time to hunt after this type of training.
It may take some time for your spaniel to walk to heel and, it is unlikely that he will ever adopt the heel ‘etiquette’ of a retriever – but this should not be your objective anyway.
Final Words
No one wants a dog that attempts to pull their arm out of the socket whenever they go out on walks.
The reality is that if there were ever a breed of dog that tries this then Cocker spaniels ( and their larger relatives Springers ) are the biggest culprits for pulling on the lead.
You should always remember the desire of your spaniel – to be free and to hunt and this should always be the main focus for your spaniel training if you want to have a competitive, capable and great hunting spaniel.
Don’t get obsessed with heel work when training spaniels – yes, you need to give it some training time but if you become too focussed on it then you could really impact the ‘drive’ that your spaniel possesses.
So tread carefully and, if your spaniel shows signs of nervousness or reluctance to hunt, then knock the heel work on the head and leave it alone for a while.
